Golden Autumn by Prince Matchabelli c1948

Launched in 1948, Prince Matchabelli's Golden Autumn embodies the essence of its evocative name with a fragrance that captures the crisp, vibrant spirit of the season. The choice of the name "Golden Autumn" is both poetic and descriptive, aiming to evoke the rich, warm hues and the serene beauty of autumn. The term "Golden Autumn" suggests a period of transition where the landscape is bathed in a golden glow, with leaves turning vibrant shades of amber and gold. This imagery aligns perfectly with the fragrance's profile, which combines the freshness of autumn with the depth and richness of an Indian Summer.

The name "Golden Autumn" conjures images of a landscape transformed by the fall season, where leaves create a carpet of gold and the air is filled with a crisp, invigorating chill. It evokes feelings of nostalgia and warmth, suggesting a time of reflection and appreciation for the natural beauty of the changing seasons. In the context of perfume, "Golden Autumn" would be interpreted as a fragrance that embodies the essence of this picturesque and transformative period, capturing the invigorating freshness of autumn and the comforting warmth of summer’s lingering touch.

Women of the 1940s would likely have found Golden Autumn appealing for its sophisticated and vibrant character. During this era, the fragrance market was evolving, with many perfumes reflecting either the opulence of the pre-war years or the emerging modern sensibilities of the post-war period. Golden Autumn's vibrant woody mossy chypre composition stood out for its crisp and refreshing qualities, which contrasted with the more opulent, heavy fragrances that had dominated the previous decade. Its blend of floral notes with woody and mossy elements created a unique and uplifting scent that resonated with the seasonal theme of renewal and change.

In the broader context of 1940s fragrances, Golden Autumn was both a product of its time and a departure from conventional trends. While the chypre fragrance family was gaining prominence, with its characteristic blend of citrus top notes, mossy and woody bases, and complex floral heart, Golden Autumn's interpretation of this style was distinctive. Its focus on the fresh, invigorating aspects of autumn, combined with the warmth of an Indian Summer, made it a notable and refreshing addition to the perfume market. The fragrance’s ability to capture the essence of the season while providing a sense of comfort and warmth made it particularly appealing to women seeking a fragrance that reflected both the beauty of the changing seasons and the elegance of post-war modernity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a vibrant woody mossy chypre fragrance for women. It was described as "crisp and refreshing as Autumn itself, with mossy and leafy notes to give it a crisp cold snap zest. Meant to lift your spirits at falling leaf time. It as fragrance that combines flower scents with woody notes with the richness of an Indian Summer."

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, galbanum, honey, lavender, lemon, aldehydes
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, patchouli, labdanum, cyclamen, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, Tibetan musk, East Indian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, oakmoss, Abyssinian ambergris, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Golden Autumn, classified as a vibrant woody mossy chypre fragrance for women, opens with a dynamic and invigorating array of top notes. Imagine the fresh, citrusy burst of Calabrian bergamot, its zesty and slightly tangy aroma instantly revitalizing your senses. This is complemented by the green, slightly resinous scent of galbanum, evoking the crisp, verdant quality of autumn leaves. A touch of honey adds a subtle, golden sweetness, offering a warm contrast to the bright citrus notes. Lavender introduces a calming, herbaceous fragrance that balances the vibrant citrus with its soothing, floral undertone. The sharpness of lemon brings an extra layer of refreshing crispness, while aldehydes contribute a clean, soapy brightness that enhances the fragrance's airy and crisp quality.

As the top notes fade, the heart of Golden Autumn unfolds, revealing a rich and complex bouquet. The rose provides a classic, velvety floral scent, its deep, romantic notes intermingling with the opulent, heady aroma of jasmine. Patchouli adds a warm, earthy depth, its slightly spicy and woody notes blending seamlessly with the rich, resinous scent of labdanum. Cyclamen introduces a light, fresh floral note with a hint of green, evoking the delicate beauty of autumn blooms. The orris root contributes a soft, powdery elegance, enhancing the fragrance's sophistication with its creamy, velvety texture.

In the base, Golden Autumn reveals its full, warming depth. The earthy, woody scent of patchouli provides a persistent, grounding element that anchors the fragrance. Tibetan musk adds a sensual, animalic warmth, while East Indian vetiver imparts a dry, smoky, and slightly woody aroma that enhances the fragrance's richness. Mysore sandalwood contributes a creamy, smooth, and rich woody base, its luxurious quality blending harmoniously with the dry, aromatic cedar. Oakmoss adds a classic chypre touch with its earthy, mossy, and slightly musty notes, enhancing the fragrance's depth and complexity. Abyssinian ambergris brings a touch of exotic richness with its warm, sweet, and slightly marine scent. Finally, tonka bean introduces a hint of sweetness and spice, rounding off the base with a subtle, warm complexity.

Golden Autumn is thus a fragrance that captures the essence of autumn with its vibrant blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, creating a scent that is both refreshing and richly comforting, perfectly embodying the transition from the crispness of fall to the lingering warmth of Indian Summer.

Bottles:

Golden Autumn is elegantly presented in two distinct and enchanting flacon designs, each reflecting the essence of its namesake fragrance. The first is the charming sceptre-shaped bottle, which embodies a regal and timeless quality. With its slender, elongated form and ornate detailing, the sceptre flacon captures a sense of sophistication and classic beauty, reminiscent of the grandeur associated with autumnal royalty. Its polished surface gleams with a golden sheen, mirroring the warm, rich tones of the fragrance within.

The second presentation is the crystal-clear crown flacon, a design that exudes clarity and purity. This bottle features a graceful, rounded shape crowned with a delicately sculpted stopper, evoking the imagery of a majestic autumnal crown. The transparent clarity of the crown flacon allows the rich, amber-colored perfume to shine through, highlighting its golden hues and adding a touch of luminous elegance.

Both flacon designs are adorned with the identifying package symbol of golden oak leaves. This motif elegantly encapsulates the fragrance’s autumnal theme, reflecting the golden tones and natural beauty of the season. The oak leaves symbolize strength and endurance, adding a touch of nature’s grandeur to the overall presentation. This thoughtful packaging not only enhances the visual appeal of Golden Autumn but also reinforces the fragrance's connection to the rich, warm, and vibrant essence of fall.

1948 Prince Matchabelli Golden Autumn perfume bottle and stopper as a crown in clear glass, gold detail, label, box. 2 in. Photo from Perfume Bottle Auctions

Fate of the Fragrance:

Golden Autumn, a fragrance cherished for its vibrant and evocative scent, was discontinued at an unspecified date, yet it lingered in the market until 1987. Its continued presence over decades speaks to the enduring appeal of its unique composition. The fragrance, with its sophisticated blend of woody and mossy notes, along with its crisp, autumnal freshness, evidently resonated with consumers long after its initial release.

The fact that Golden Autumn was still being sold in 1987 suggests a lasting popularity and a devoted following. Despite the passage of time and the evolution of fragrance trends, Golden Autumn's distinctive blend of citrus, floral, and woody elements remained a beloved choice for those seeking a fragrance that captured the essence of autumn's fleeting beauty. Its availability well into the late 1980s underscores its classic status and the nostalgic connection it held for its wearers, embodying a timeless elegance that continued to charm and delight long after its original launch.