Princess of Wales by Prince Matchabelli c1939

In 1939, Prince Matchabelli launched a fragrance named Princess of Wales, a title that was not chosen lightly. The name itself carries significant historical and emotional weight, evoking images of British royalty and elegance. The title "Princess of Wales" traditionally refers to the wife of the heir apparent to the British throne, a position of high prestige and public admiration. By naming the fragrance Princess of Wales, Prince Matchabelli sought to associate the perfume with the grace, beauty, and regal aura that the title embodies.

Princess of Wales was dedicated to Queen Alexandra, the beautiful and beloved wife of King Edward VII, who held the title Princess of Wales from 1863 until her husband’s accession to the throne in 1901. Queen Alexandra was renowned for her beauty, fashion sense, and charitable work, becoming a cultural icon of her time. Her popularity and influence extended beyond the United Kingdom, making her an ideal muse for a fragrance intended to capture the elegance and sophistication of a bygone era.

Alexandra was celebrated for her delicate, refined style, often setting trends that were emulated by women across Europe. Her ability to balance royal duties with a sense of personal grace made her an enduring figure in British history. By dedicating Princess of Wales to Queen Alexandra, Prince Matchabelli tapped into a rich vein of historical significance, linking the perfume to an era of opulence and elegance that many women of the 1930s would have admired.

The late 1930s was a time when nostalgia for the Victorian and Edwardian eras was not uncommon. Films and literature romanticizing these periods were popular, often portraying the lavish lifestyles and sophisticated manners of the British aristocracy. Queen Alexandra herself would have been a familiar figure to the public, with her image likely enhanced by the media of the time. The launch of Princess of Wales coincided with this cultural interest, making it a timely tribute.

The name "Princess of Wales" conjures images of royal grandeur, feminine grace, and a connection to British history. It evokes a sense of timeless elegance and a certain light-hearted charm, qualities that were likely intended to be mirrored in the fragrance itself. For a perfume, this name suggests a scent that is both sophisticated and approachable, rich yet delicate—a fragrance befitting a princess, yet wearable by any woman who wished to capture a bit of that regal aura.

In the context of a fragrance, the title Princess of Wales would have been interpreted as a blend of refined elegance and approachable femininity. The scent, described as a "sweet and spicy floral," was designed to embody the gaiety and sophistication of England in the 1890s—a time when Queen Alexandra herself was a leading figure in society. The "exciting, sparkling, heady floral bouquet" of the perfume would have been crafted to evoke the light-hearted, sweet, and elegant aspects of Alexandra’s persona.

Women in the late 1930s, facing the lasting uncertainties of the Great Depression and approaching war, might have found comfort and escape in a fragrance that offered a connection to a more stable and glamorous past. Wearing a perfume called Princess of Wales would allow them to indulge in a fantasy of royal sophistication, perhaps offering a sense of empowerment and elegance in a challenging time.

The late 1930s saw the launch of several iconic fragrances, many of which leaned towards heavier, more complex scents suitable for evening wear. However, Princess of Wales stood out with its emphasis on a floral bouquet that was both sweet and spicy, a combination that balanced traditional femininity with a touch of warmth and intrigue. This composition was well-suited for winter, and the suggestion that it be worn with furs further underlined its luxurious nature.

The fragrance was unique in its explicit association with British royalty and historical figures, setting it apart from other perfumes of the time that often focused on more abstract or contemporary themes. By drawing on the legacy of Queen Alexandra and the romanticized image of the 1890s, Princess of Wales offered a distinct blend of nostalgia, luxury, and femininity that resonated with women of the era.

Princess of Wales by Prince Matchabelli was more than just a perfume; it was a carefully crafted tribute to a beloved royal figure, an evocation of a glamorous past, and a reflection of the elegance and sophistication that many women aspired to in the 1930s. Its unique blend of sweet and spicy florals, combined with its rich historical associations, made it a standout fragrance in a competitive market, offering women a chance to connect with the regal charm of Queen Alexandra and the light-hearted elegance of Victorian England.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet and spicy floral fragrance for women. It was described as "an exciting, sparkling, heady floral bouquet scent, embodying all the gaiety and elegance that was England in the 1890s", "light-hearted, and sweet."  To be worn with furs and suited for winter.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, aldehydes, green notes, coriander, cardamom
• Middle notes: orange blossom, ylang ylang, rose, lily of the valley, violet, carnation, jasmine
• Base notes: heliotrope, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, patchouli, benzoin

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Princess of Wales, the initial impression is bright and invigorating, a harmonious blend of fresh and spicy notes that set the stage for the fragrance’s unfolding journey.

The crisp, citrusy zest of bergamot immediately catches your attention, its slightly bitter edge tempered by the juicy sweetness of orange. This combination creates a vibrant and lively opening, evoking the freshness of a winter morning. The citrus notes are quickly joined by the sharp, clean scent of aldehydes, which adds a sparkling, effervescent quality, like the first sip of a fine champagne.

A hint of green notes weaves through the citrus, bringing with it the fresh, leafy scent of nature, grounding the brightness with a touch of earthiness. As the initial brightness begins to settle, the warm, slightly nutty aroma of coriander introduces a subtle spiciness, adding depth and complexity. Cardamom follows closely behind, its rich, sweet-spicy scent wrapping the citrus and green notes in a comforting warmth, hinting at the exoticism to come.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal a lush, intoxicating bouquet that embodies the full elegance and femininity of Princess of Wales. The delicate, sweet scent of orange blossom blooms first, reminiscent of sun-kissed orchards, its aroma both uplifting and softly romantic. This is quickly followed by the exotic richness of ylang-ylang, which introduces a creamy, slightly fruity floral note that adds a voluptuous quality to the heart of the fragrance.

Next, the classic and timeless scent of rose emerges, its rich, velvety petals releasing a fragrance that is both sweet and slightly spicy, embodying the very essence of romance. The lily of the valley adds a touch of innocence with its fresh, green floral scent, delicate yet distinctly crisp, reminiscent of spring mornings.

Violet introduces a soft, powdery note, adding a vintage elegance that harks back to the refined beauty of the 1890s. Carnation follows, with its spicy, clove-like aroma bringing a fiery warmth to the bouquet, balancing the sweetness with a hint of daring. Finally, jasmine completes the floral heart, its intoxicating, heady aroma adding depth and sensuality, a floral note so rich it borders on the narcotic, enhancing the fragrance’s overall complexity.

As Princess of Wales settles into the skin, the base notes emerge, enveloping the wearer in a warm, comforting embrace that lingers beautifully throughout the day. Heliotrope introduces a soft, almond-like sweetness, its powdery floral aroma gently intertwined with the creamy richness of vanilla. The vanilla adds a gourmand touch, its warmth and sweetness perfectly balancing the spice and florals, making the fragrance irresistibly cozy and inviting.

Sandalwood brings a smooth, woody depth, its creamy, slightly sweet aroma adding a layer of sophistication and grounding the sweetness of the heliotrope and vanilla. The subtle, sensual muskiness of musk enhances this warmth, creating an intimate, skin-like scent that feels both comforting and alluring.

Ambergris adds a touch of mystery, its deep, oceanic scent providing a subtle, earthy richness that enhances the fragrance’s overall warmth. Patchouli contributes a dark, earthy quality, its slightly sweet and woody aroma adding depth and a hint of smokiness, which contrasts beautifully with the sweeter notes.

Finally, benzoin rounds out the base with its rich, balsamic sweetness, adding a touch of vanilla-like warmth that echoes the earlier notes, creating a lasting impression of luxurious warmth and sensuality.

Princess of Wales is a masterful composition, where each note plays a crucial role in creating a fragrance that is at once sweet, spicy, floral, and warmly sensual. It captures the essence of a winter bouquet—fresh and sparkling at the top, richly floral at the heart, and warm and comforting in the base. The fragrance is a tribute to the elegance and gaiety of the 1890s, wrapped in the sophistication and warmth of the 1930s, making it a perfect companion for the colder months, especially when paired with luxurious furs.

Bottles:

The perfume was housed in the familiar crown bottle and packaged in a gray satin box.

Art and Industry - Volume 28 - Page 37, 1940:

"To complement the gay 'go's waistlines, flounces, bustles and snoods of present-day fashions, Prince Matchabelli has evolved a luxurious new scent which has been named Princess of Wales. The perfume, in its regal gilt crown"

The New Yorker, 1940:

"Matchabelli : Duchess of York, Ave Maria, Katherine the Great, and Princess of Wales. Year after year people who once bought them for the crown bottles they come in return to buy more for the scents themselves. Marvellous colognes.."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Princess of Wales by Prince Matchabelli was a fragrance that embodied the elegance and charm of its era. Despite its allure and the devoted following it garnered, the perfume was eventually discontinued, although the exact date remains unclear. What is known is that Princess of Wales continued to be available to consumers as late as 1953, indicating its enduring popularity well over a decade after its initial launch.

The discontinuation of a fragrance like Princess of Wales often marks the end of an era, where shifting trends and the evolution of the market lead to the phasing out of even the most beloved scents. For those who cherished its unique blend of sweet and spicy florals, its absence likely left a void, as it was a perfume that perfectly captured a sense of timeless sophistication. The reasons behind its discontinuation may remain a mystery, but the fact that it was still sold in 1953 speaks to its lasting appeal in a rapidly changing world.