Launched in 1940, Pot Pourri by Prince Matchabelli carries a name steeped in tradition and evokes a rich sense of nostalgia. The term "potpourri" originates from French, where it literally translates to "rotten pot" — a reference to the mixture of dried, aromatic plant materials used to scent rooms. In its essence, potpourri is a fragrant blend of dried flowers, spices, and herbs, carefully curated to create a pleasing and long-lasting scent.
In the context of perfumery, "Pot Pourri" evokes images of a richly aromatic blend, much like the traditional potpourri itself. The name conjures a sense of lush, sensory indulgence, suggesting a fragrance that is as complex and varied as the potpourri blends used in Victorian homes. This connection would resonate with women of the time, who might have associated the name with the opulent and carefully curated scents of their past.
During the 1940s, the perfume market was experiencing a transition. Fragrances were evolving from the more traditional and heavily floral compositions of the earlier decades to incorporate richer and more exotic elements. The launch of Pot Pourri positioned it within this trend, offering a sophisticated blend that combined the classic floral notes with a new depth of oriental spices and woody undertones.
Pot Pourri was classified as a floral oriental fragrance, notable for its spicy floral blend featuring roses, dark violets, and a nuanced woody dry-down. This blend reflects the broader trend of the time, which favored complex and multi-layered compositions that hinted at exoticism and sophistication. The spicy and woody elements of Pot Pourri added a modern twist to the more conventional floral fragrances of the era.
The 1940s was also marked by a cultural fascination with the past, including a revival of Victorian aesthetics in films like Gone With The Wind. This era's engagement with Victorian themes and styles would have made a fragrance named Pot Pourri, with its historical connotations and aromatic richness, particularly appealing. The perfume's name not only evoked a sense of nostalgia but also fit seamlessly into the broader trend of blending tradition with modernity.
Overall, Pot Pourri by Prince Matchabelli stood out in the 1940s perfume landscape for its unique blend of floral and oriental elements, its evocative name, and its connection to both historical and contemporary sensibilities.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It was described as a "Fragrance of roses, shy dark violets and spice." It was a spicy floral blend with a woodsy dry down.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, verbena, orange peel, hyacinth, Italian lemon, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom
- Middle notes: lavender, star anise, rose, carnation, ylang ylang, lilac, violet, jasmine, orange blossom, orris, coriander
- Base notes: civet, ambergris, patchouli, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, Tibetan musk, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver
Fashions of the Hour, 1940:
"The exotic scent of Prince Matchabelli's Potpourri cologne brings to mind a medley of Oriental splendor and veiled mystery. A lasting fragrance of spices and flowers."
Scent Profile:
Pot Pourri by Prince Matchabelli offers a captivating experience, with its intricate layers of scent unfolding through a harmonious blend of floral and oriental notes. Upon the first encounter with Pot Pourri, you are greeted by a vibrant burst of aldehydes, which introduce a sparkling and effervescent quality. The initial impression is fresh and invigorating, reminiscent of the crisp, clean air of a sunlit morning. This is followed by the zesty brightness of bergamot, which infuses the fragrance with its citrusy, slightly floral aroma. As the scent evolves, verbena adds a green, lemony nuance, while the orange peel lends a juicy, tangy sweetness. The hyacinth contributes a soft, dewy floral note, enhancing the fragrance’s freshness. Italian lemon offers a sharp, uplifting citrus edge, complemented by the warm spiciness of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cardamom, which introduce a rich, aromatic warmth to the scent.As the top notes fade, the heart of Pot Pourri reveals a lush bouquet of florals. Lavender brings a soothing, herbaceous quality with its clean and calming aroma. Star anise adds a hint of licorice-like spice, blending seamlessly with the deep, romantic scent of rose. The carnation introduces a spicy, slightly sweet floral note, while ylang-ylang contributes its rich, exotic, and creamy aroma. Lilac adds a soft, powdery floral touch, and violet imparts a delicate, greenish floral nuance. Jasmine enriches the composition with its heady, intoxicating sweetness, perfectly complemented by the light, citrusy note of orange blossom. Orris root brings a velvety, powdery richness, and coriander introduces a subtle hint of spice, creating a sophisticated and complex floral heart.
The fragrance’s base notes unfold with a deep, sensual richness. Civet adds an animalic warmth, lending a hint of wild, musky depth. Ambergris contributes its unique, slightly sweet, and oceanic aroma, enhancing the fragrance’s luxurious feel. Patchouli offers an earthy, woody quality with its rich, dark undertones, perfectly balanced by the creamy, smooth scent of Mysore sandalwood. Cedar brings a dry, woody essence, while Tibetan musk adds a deep, musky warmth. Benzoin introduces a sweet, resinous aroma, and vanilla lends a warm, comforting, and creamy sweetness. Vetiver grounds the fragrance with its green, woody, and smoky undertones, rounding out the composition with a complex and lasting finish.
Overall, Pot Pourri is a fragrance that elegantly balances fresh citrus and spicy notes with a rich floral heart and a deep, woody base, creating a timeless and sophisticated scent experience.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1970, Potpourri by Prince Matchabelli was discontinued, marking the end of an era for this elegant floral oriental fragrance. Alongside Potpourri, other beloved fragrances such as Golden Autumn, Prophecy, and Stradivari were also retired, closing a chapter on a distinctive collection of scents that had left a significant mark on the perfume industry.
Potpourri had established itself as a sophisticated and memorable fragrance, known for its intricate blend of floral and oriental notes. Its departure from the market was part of a broader trend during this period when many classic scents were being phased out to make way for newer, more contemporary offerings. This shift reflected changing tastes and the evolving landscape of perfumery in the late 20th century.
The discontinuation of Potpourri and its contemporaries like Golden Autumn, Prophecy, and Stradivari signified more than just the end of these specific fragrances. It represented a transition in the perfume industry, as consumer preferences shifted towards different scent profiles and marketing strategies. The end of these classic fragrances was a poignant reminder of the transient nature of the perfume world, where even the most cherished scents can eventually fade into history.
For those who remember Potpourri, its legacy endures as a symbol of mid-20th-century elegance and sophistication. Its unique blend of floral and oriental notes, which captivated so many, remains a cherished memory for fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike.
I can close my eyes and concentrate on Potpouree's scent. My first boyfriend Ken Rooney gave it to me when I was 16 at Christmas. I had a few other French perfumes but Potpouree was and will always be a favourite. Ditto "My Sin" to me, gifted by lifelong pal Jack Dowdell.
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