Launched in 1946, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli was a perfume that captured the spirit of post-war elegance and sophistication. The name “Crown Jewel” evokes images of regal splendor and exquisite luxury. In an era recovering from global conflict, the name would have resonated with notions of opulence and refinement, promising a fragrance as precious and distinguished as a royal jewel.
The phrase "Crown Jewel" traditionally refers to a highly valued or cherished object, often a gem or piece of regalia, symbolizing the pinnacle of beauty and worth. In the context of perfume, this name would suggest a fragrance that is not only luxurious but also a standout among its peers. It implies a scent of exceptional quality and significance, one that embodies the grandeur and exclusivity of its name.
During the mid-20th century, the market was rich with perfumes aiming to capture the glamour and sophistication of the era. Crown Jewel was Prince Matchabelli’s response to Jean Patou’s renowned fragrance, Joy, which was celebrated for its lavish floral composition. Both perfumes shared an essence of opulence, though Crown Jewel was distinguished by its aldehydic woodsy floral profile.
The post-war period was marked by a return to elegance and the reassertion of femininity and grace in fashion and beauty. Women of the time were drawn to fragrances that reflected this renewed sense of sophistication and luxury. Crown Jewel, with its description as a "brilliant, opulent floral," aligned well with the trends of the period, appealing to those seeking a scent that was both grand and refined.
Crown Jewel thus stood as a testament to the era's penchant for regal elegance and luxurious allure, echoing the lavishness of its name while providing a floral fragrance that was both distinctive and fitting for the time's aesthetic sensibilities.
Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1946, marked a significant milestone as the first postwar perfume released by the American company. Its introduction was accompanied by a flair of sophistication and a nod to European luxury, as period newspaper advertisements prominently touted the fragrance as "imported from France." This clever marketing conveyed an image of refined elegance and continental charm, aligning with the post-war desire for opulence and grandeur.
However, while the advertisements suggested that Crown Jewel was entirely crafted in France, the reality was somewhat different. Although the perfume's formula was indeed developed and perfected in France, the process did not extend beyond the creation of the scent itself. After the formula was finalized, it was transported to the Matchabelli factory in the United States. There, the perfume was blended with domestic alcohol, a crucial step that ensured the final product was tailored to American preferences and standards.
Following this, the fragrance was bottled, packaged, and distributed from the American facility. This method of production allowed Prince Matchabelli to leverage both the prestige of French perfume craftsmanship and the practicalities of domestic production. The result was a fragrance that carried the allure of French sophistication while being fully accessible to American consumers, encapsulating the best of both worlds in a single, alluring bottle.
Fragrance Composition:
Said to be Matchabelli's answer to Jean Patou's Joy perfume.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic woodsy floral fragrance for women and was described as a brilliant, opulent floral, with many similarities to Patou's Joy.
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, hyacinth, aldehydes, green note, lily of the valley, peach, mint
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily, orchid, tuberose, carnation, ylang ylang, lilac, orange blossom
- Base notes: oakmoss, orris, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, Abyssinian ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, patchouli
Scent Profile:
Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1946, is a radiant example of an aldehydic woodsy floral fragrance for women. This perfume embodies a brilliant and opulent floral experience, with nuances similar to the renowned Jean Patou's Joy.
The fragrance opens with a vibrant and sparkling top note of Calabrian Bergamot, which bursts forth with its crisp and zesty citrus aroma. This fresh, tangy scent sets an invigorating tone, immediately capturing attention. Lemon follows with its bright and acidic sharpness, enhancing the citrusy freshness and providing an added layer of lively vibrancy. Neroli introduces a delicate floral nuance, its sweet, honeyed aroma evoking a sense of elegant sophistication. Alongside, Hyacinth offers a green, dewy freshness, reminiscent of blooming flowers with its clean, powdery quality. The top notes are rounded out by Mint, adding a cool, refreshing lift that invigorates the senses.
As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals its rich, complex bouquet. Rose stands out with its deep, velvety scent, imparting a timeless, romantic depth that anchors the floral heart. This is complemented by the lush, exotic aroma of Jasmine, which brings a creamy, sensual warmth to the composition. Lily adds a crisp, clean floral note with a hint of green, contributing an elegant refinement to the blend. Orchid introduces a sweet, exotic aroma with vanilla undertones, enriching the fragrance with its velvety richness. The intoxicating scent of Tuberose envelops the wearer in a bold, creamy floral aura, heightening the perfume’s opulence. Carnation adds a spicy warmth with its clove-like quality, infusing the heart with a touch of vintage charm. Ylang-Ylang offers a tropical, sweet, and slightly fruity note, enhancing the bouquet with a lush, romantic essence. Lilac provides a soft, powdery floral touch, adding a dreamy, nostalgic quality. Lastly, Orange Blossom introduces a bright, sweet floral note with a hint of citrus, enriching the floral heart with its radiant elegance.
The base of Crown Jewel is anchored by a rich, complex blend of Oakmoss and Orris. Oakmoss lends a deep, earthy, and mossy scent, grounding the fragrance with its natural, woody aroma. Orris adds a creamy, powdery floral note, contributing a luxurious texture to the base. Mysore Sandalwood offers a warm, creamy, and exotic woody aroma, creating a soft, sensual foundation. Complementing this is the crisp, aromatic quality of Cedar, which enhances the base with its refined elegance. The inclusion of Abyssinian Ambergris introduces a warm, resinous sweetness, adding a golden richness to the fragrance. Tibetan Musk provides a deep, sensual warmth with its intoxicating, musky aroma, contributing to the fragrance's lasting allure. Abyssinian Civet adds a bold, animalic edge, with its musky, leathery scent providing a touch of exoticism. Finally, Patchouli lends an earthy, woody richness, anchoring the fragrance with its deep, sophisticated depth.
In essence, Crown Jewel is a fragrance that combines sparkling freshness with lush floral elements and warm, woody undertones, creating an enduringly elegant and luxurious scent profile.
Bottle:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Crown Jewel, the exquisite perfume by Prince Matchabelli, was a dazzling creation that epitomized the sophistication and opulence of its era. Launched in 1946, this fragrance was a celebration of luxurious floral and woody notes, crafted to embody the radiant elegance reminiscent of its namesake.
Despite its initial success, Crown Jewel was eventually discontinued, though the exact date of its withdrawal remains unknown. Its charm endured beyond its official discontinuation; the perfume was still available for purchase as late as 1964. This longevity is a testament to the fragrance's enduring appeal and the lasting impression it made on those who cherished its refined character.
The allure of Crown Jewel lay in its masterful blend of aldehydic floral and woody notes, creating a scent that was both vibrant and sophisticated. From its crisp, citrusy top notes of Calabrian bergamot and lemon to the lush, opulent heart of rose and jasmine, the fragrance offered a truly immersive olfactory experience. The base notes of Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, and patchouli provided a rich, enduring foundation, ensuring that the perfume left a memorable and elegant trail.
Though no longer in production, Crown Jewel remains a cherished memory for those who experienced its beauty, symbolizing a golden era of perfume-making and the timeless allure of classic fragrances.
Greetings,
ReplyDeleteI have in my collection a sealed 1 fl.oz crown bottle with clear glass panels for 'Crown Jewel', nearly full and in wonderful condition although the parfum within looks a little darker now. The stopper is a small gold glass cross tied with very fine twine & sealed with a waxy membrane, I'm not quite sure how old this presentation is, any information would be very much appreciated. Also I have another boxed parfum by Prince Matchabelli called *Damas*, I can not find any reference to this long discontinued gem, the bottle is high quality clear glass with a tulip shaped stopper(similar to Raphael's 'Replique') in crystal bearing the deeply etched insignia of the Matchabelli crown, very interesting indeed, I have never seen another since acquiring this coffret ! The parfum contained within smells very dark, rosy & plummy, similar to Rochas 'Femme' in a strange kind of way ? Again please reply regarding this long forgotten juice by Prince 'M'
Kind Regards.
L'HV