Princess Marie by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1933, carries with it a name steeped in historical resonance and royal elegance. The fragrance is dedicated to Empress Marie of Russia, a figure whose life and legacy were intertwined with the grandeur and tragedy of the Russian imperial court. Prince Matchabelli, a Russian nobleman himself, would have found in Empress Marie a figure of both personal and cultural significance, making her an ideal muse for a perfume that aimed to capture an aura of aristocratic refinement and grace. Empress Marie, the mother of the last Tsar of Russia, Nicholas II, is famous for her enduring strength, poise, and deep sense of duty during tumultuous times. These qualities, coupled with the opulence of the Russian court, provide a rich tapestry of inspiration for a fragrance that seeks to embody regal sophistication.
The name "Princess Marie" evokes images of a woman who is both commanding and graceful, someone who embodies both the softness of femininity and the strength of nobility. It suggests a perfume that is elegant yet approachable, with a depth and complexity that reflects the storied life of its namesake. In the world of fragrance, "Princess Marie" would likely be interpreted as a scent that is delicate yet enduring, sweet with an undercurrent of something more profound—perhaps a touch of spice or a hint of something slightly aloof, echoing the duality of a princess who is both of the people and apart from them.
Women of the time period would have related to a perfume called "Princess Marie" as an embodiment of their own aspirations and ideals. In the 1930s, a time of economic recovery and social change following the Great Depression, many women were drawn to symbols of stability, tradition, and refined elegance. A perfume named "Princess Marie" would have offered them a connection to a world of royal fantasy, a touch of luxury and sophistication that could elevate their everyday lives. It would have been a way to express their own femininity and grace, aligning themselves with the timeless qualities that Empress Marie represented.
When "Princess Marie" was launched in 1933, the fragrance market was filled with a variety of scents, from the opulent and exotic to the fresh and clean. However, the 1930s also saw a trend towards more sophisticated and refined fragrances, reflecting the era's emphasis on understated elegance and timeless beauty. "Princess Marie," with its sweet floral notes and the added complexity of spice and carnation, would have fit perfectly within this trend. Yet, its dedication to a royal figure and its complex blend of sweet and spicy elements also set it apart, offering something unique and deeply resonant to those who wore it.
In the context of other fragrances on the market, "Princess Marie" was likely seen as both a tribute to the past and a nod to the enduring appeal of classic beauty. It was a fragrance that could stand the test of time, much like the legacy of Empress Marie herself, offering a scent that was as witty and teasing as it was aloof and refined.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women. Described as "sweet, spicy, with a whiff of carnation" and "witty, teasing, aloof."
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli
- Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris, clove, cinnamon
- Base notes: musk, vanilla, Abyssinian ambergris, Mysore sandalwood
Scent Profile:
As you experience the scent of Princess Marie, the first impression is a lively and sparkling burst of aldehydes. These notes bring an airy, effervescent quality to the fragrance, like the crisp, clean scent of freshly laundered linens in a sunlit room. The aldehydes create a slightly soapy, bright start that immediately captures attention, paving the way for the more complex notes to unfold. Intertwined with the aldehydes, the citrusy zing of bergamot and lemon adds a fresh, invigorating touch. The bergamot is slightly bitter, with a green, floral undertone, while the lemon offers a sharp, tangy brightness that balances the sweetness. As these citrus notes dance on the skin, the delicate floral sweetness of neroli begins to emerge, adding a soft, honeyed, and slightly green nuance to the top notes, wrapping the opening in a fresh yet sophisticated aura.
As the fragrance settles, the heart of Princess Marie reveals itself, dominated by the spicy, clove-like warmth of carnation. This note is both sweet and fiery, with a rich, almost peppery edge that gives the fragrance its distinctive "teasing" quality. The carnation is the centerpiece of the composition, adding depth and character to the perfume. Surrounding it, the lush, velvety aroma of rose unfolds, offering a deep, sweet floral richness that complements the spiciness of the carnation. The rose is classic and timeless, embodying the romantic and elegant essence of the fragrance.
Jasmine adds an exotic, slightly indolic sweetness, contributing to the overall sensuality of the heart notes. It's a heady, intoxicating floral that contrasts beautifully with the more reserved and powdery iris, which introduces a soft, slightly earthy powderiness, lending the fragrance an aloof and refined character. Ylang-ylang adds a creamy, tropical floral touch, with hints of banana and spice, rounding out the heart notes with warmth and an underlying sensuality. Finally, subtle hints of clove and cinnamon weave through the florals, amplifying the spicy warmth of the carnation and adding an intriguing complexity to the composition.
In the dry-down, the base notes begin to take center stage, anchoring the fragrance with a deep, sensual warmth. Musk introduces a soft, animalic quality that lingers on the skin, enhancing the overall allure of the perfume. It is intimate and enveloping, creating a lasting impression. Vanilla adds a creamy, sweet richness that softens the spiciness of the heart notes, giving the fragrance a comforting and indulgent finish.
The rich, resinous scent of Abyssinian ambergris emerges, adding a warm, slightly salty depth that enhances the overall richness of the perfume. It is a rare and luxurious note that contributes to the perfume's complexity. Mysore sandalwood, known for its smooth, creamy, and slightly sweet woody scent, brings a grounding warmth to the base, adding a touch of exoticism and refinement. The sandalwood, combined with the musk and ambergris, creates a sensual, lingering base that perfectly complements the sweet and spicy heart of the fragrance.
Princess Marie is a sophisticated and multifaceted fragrance, where each note plays a crucial role in creating a composition that is both elegant and intriguing. The sweetness of the florals, the spiciness of the carnation, and the warm, sensual base come together to create a perfume that is witty, teasing, and just a bit aloof, capturing the essence of a true classic.
Bottles:
Topping this exquisite flacon is a frosted glass stopper, shaped like a cross and also adorned with gilt accents. The frosted glass adds a soft, ethereal quality to the design, while the cross stopper serves as a fitting tribute to the nobility and grace that inspired the fragrance. The combination of the crown-shaped bottle, the gilded accents, and the cross stopper creates a package that is not only a container for the perfume but a work of art in itself—a reflection of the elegance and refinement that Princess Marie embodies. This bottle design perfectly complements the fragrance inside, making it a cherished piece for any perfume connoisseur.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Princess Marie, a fragrance of refined elegance and timeless allure, was discontinued at an unknown date, leaving behind an aura of mystery regarding its departure from the market. Despite its discontinuation, this sweet floral perfume with its hints of spice continued to captivate and be available to discerning buyers as late as 1959. The persistence of its presence in the market even after many years speaks to the enduring appeal of its sophisticated blend. This perfume, with its regal inspiration and exquisite bottle design, maintained its place among the cherished fragrances of its time, leaving a lasting impression on those who experienced its unique charm.
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