Chimère by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1979, emerged during a period rich with evolving trends in the perfume industry. The late 1970s were marked by a resurgence of interest in classic and sophisticated fragrances, with a growing appreciation for complex, multi-layered compositions. The choice of the name "Chimère" reflects the era’s fascination with mythology and the allure of the exotic, evoking a sense of mystery and fantasy.
The term "Chimère" is derived from French, and translates to "chimera" in English. In mythology, a chimera is a creature composed of parts from different animals, symbolizing the blending of disparate elements into a single, fantastical entity. This name evokes images of mythical grandeur and enigmatic beauty, suggesting a fragrance that combines various elements to create something unique and captivating. The word “Chimère” conjures feelings of mystique and allure, suggesting a scent that is both intriguing and sophisticated, with a sense of fantasy and otherworldliness.
For women of the late 1970s, the name "Chimère" would have resonated with the era's embrace of both classic elegance and adventurous innovation. The fragrance’s profile—beginning with a bright aldehydic top note, progressing into a rich, narcotic floral heart, and resting on a warm, woody, and mossy base—mirrored the decade’s preference for complex, well-rounded scents. This fragrance was in line with the period’s trend towards rich, multifaceted compositions, yet its specific blend of floral and woody elements with a hint of mysterious spices set it apart.
The choice of "Chimère" as a name aligns with the broader trend of the time, where perfumes were increasingly marketed not just as scents, but as experiences that evoke specific moods and imagery. The name and the fragrance’s description as a "semi-oriental, a brilliant floral blend of roses, jasmine, gardenia, and lily of the valley touched with a subtle splurge of mysterious spices and darker notes" fit well within the era’s interest in luxurious and intriguing fragrances that offered a sensory escape from everyday life. Thus, Chimère captured the essence of the time, embodying both the classic and the contemporary, and appealing to those who sought both elegance and a touch of the exotic in their scent.
In September 1979, Chesebrough-Ponds, then the parent company of Prince Matchabelli, launched an ambitious advertising and promotional campaign to introduce Chimère. This campaign was a significant investment, totaling $4.5 million over four months, reflecting the high stakes and expectations for this new fragrance. Chimère was strategically designed to appeal to a more mature female demographic, promising a sophisticated scent that resonated with their refined tastes and aspirations.
The campaign's success was notable. According to a 1980 report in the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, Chimère outperformed expectations, with more of the fragrance sold in its initial four months than Revlon's Charlie had during its entire first year. This impressive sales performance highlighted the strong market reception and the effectiveness of Prince Matchabelli's marketing strategies. The buzz surrounding Chimère was significant enough to set the stage for further expansions, including the introduction of a men’s fragrance under the Matchabelli name in the following year.
Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 1980
"Chimere, a new women's fragrance introduced last fall by the company's Prince Matchabelli Division. More Chimere perfume was sold in the first four months than Revlon Inc, sold in its first full year of its successful introduction of Charlie in the mid 1970s. And this year Prince Matchabelli is coming out with a men's fragrance called Matchabelli."
As detailed in Marketing Communications in 1982, the development of Chimère was driven by a nuanced understanding of market trends and consumer behavior. Prince Matchabelli faced the challenge of creating a unique positioning for the fragrance amidst a crowded market of existing choices. The company invested over $250,000 in research to craft a strategy that would distinguish Chimère while not detracting from their already successful fragrance lines. The research revealed that a significant portion of American women were entering the workforce, many in professional and executive roles. These women sought a fragrance that reflected both their aspirations and their sophistication. Chimère was designed to meet this demand, embodying a dual image: outwardly discreet and elegant, but with a more complex, intriguing character up close. This strategic positioning aimed to capture the essence of modern femininity and ambition, making Chimère a fitting choice for women who balanced grace and professional success.
Marketing Communications, 1982:
"Prince Matchabelli characterizes the company's dilemma at the time. "We needed a positioning that was unique and dramatic enough to stand out among the proliferation of existing choices. Yet it had to be broad enough to deliver a mass market without heavily cannibalizing the sales of our three successful brands already in the market." Over one year and $250,000 worth of research later. a strategy emerged that was to culminate in the introduction of Chimere. research showed that over 50% of American women were working. Many of them were newly employed and well-educated, with aspirations for executive positions. They wanted it all - fortune and femininity. This arose the dual Chimere image: "To the world, it's discreet, elegant. But up close, it's something else."
In September 1979, Chesebrough-Ponds, then the parent company of Prince Matchabelli, launched an ambitious advertising and promotional campaign to introduce Chimère. This campaign was a significant investment, totaling $4.5 million over four months, reflecting the high stakes and expectations for this new fragrance. Chimère was strategically designed to appeal to a more mature female demographic, promising a sophisticated scent that resonated with their refined tastes and aspirations.
The campaign's success was notable. According to a 1980 report in the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, Chimère outperformed expectations, with more of the fragrance sold in its initial four months than Revlon's Charlie had during its entire first year. This impressive sales performance highlighted the strong market reception and the effectiveness of Prince Matchabelli's marketing strategies. The buzz surrounding Chimère was significant enough to set the stage for further expansions, including the introduction of a men’s fragrance under the Matchabelli name in the following year.
Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 1980
"Chimere, a new women's fragrance introduced last fall by the company's Prince Matchabelli Division. More Chimere perfume was sold in the first four months than Revlon Inc, sold in its first full year of its successful introduction of Charlie in the mid 1970s. And this year Prince Matchabelli is coming out with a men's fragrance called Matchabelli."
As detailed in Marketing Communications in 1982, the development of Chimère was driven by a nuanced understanding of market trends and consumer behavior. Prince Matchabelli faced the challenge of creating a unique positioning for the fragrance amidst a crowded market of existing choices. The company invested over $250,000 in research to craft a strategy that would distinguish Chimère while not detracting from their already successful fragrance lines. The research revealed that a significant portion of American women were entering the workforce, many in professional and executive roles. These women sought a fragrance that reflected both their aspirations and their sophistication. Chimère was designed to meet this demand, embodying a dual image: outwardly discreet and elegant, but with a more complex, intriguing character up close. This strategic positioning aimed to capture the essence of modern femininity and ambition, making Chimère a fitting choice for women who balanced grace and professional success.
Marketing Communications, 1982:
"Prince Matchabelli characterizes the company's dilemma at the time. "We needed a positioning that was unique and dramatic enough to stand out among the proliferation of existing choices. Yet it had to be broad enough to deliver a mass market without heavily cannibalizing the sales of our three successful brands already in the market." Over one year and $250,000 worth of research later. a strategy emerged that was to culminate in the introduction of Chimere. research showed that over 50% of American women were working. Many of them were newly employed and well-educated, with aspirations for executive positions. They wanted it all - fortune and femininity. This arose the dual Chimere image: "To the world, it's discreet, elegant. But up close, it's something else."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral-woody chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with an aldehydic top note, followed by a narcotic floral heart, resting on a warm, woody, mossy base. It was described by Prince Matchabelli as a "semi-oriental, a brilliant floral blend of roses, jasmine, gardenia and lily of the valley touched with a subtle splurge of mysterious spices and darker notes."- Top notes: aldehydes, gardenia, galbanum, Calabrian bergamot
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, narcissus, rose, tuberose, orris, carnation, ylang ylang
- Base notes: spices, patchouli, East Indian vetiver, Abyssinian ambergris, castoreum, Tibetan musk, oakmoss, benzoin
Scent Profile:
Chimère unfolds with an intricate dance of scents, beginning with its top notes that deliver an immediately striking impression. The initial burst of aldehydes introduces a sparkling, effervescent quality, reminiscent of crisp, clean air infused with a touch of modern sophistication.
This is seamlessly complemented by the vibrant, zesty brightness of Calabrian bergamot, which adds a fresh, citrusy lift that feels both invigorating and elegant. The inclusion of galbanum introduces a green, slightly resinous note, evoking the crispness of fresh foliage, and adds a complex, slightly smoky nuance to the opening.
As Chimère evolves, the heart reveals a rich, narcotic blend of floral notes that captures the essence of opulence. Gardenia lends its creamy, velvety texture, enveloping the senses in a lush, almost intoxicating fragrance that is both exotic and inviting. The delicate yet potent scent of lily of the valley adds a touch of innocence and purity, while jasmine contributes a deep, sensuous richness that enhances the floral bouquet with its warm, heady aroma.
Narcissus brings a green, slightly spicy facet, enriching the floral accord with a hint of earthiness. Rose provides a classic floral elegance, its romantic and timeless scent mingling seamlessly with the sweetness of tuberose and the refined, powdery notes of orris. Carnation introduces a subtle spicy edge, adding depth and complexity, while ylang ylang offers a luscious, tropical sweetness that balances the heart with its exotic flair.
The fragrance then settles into a warm, woody, and mossy base that anchors Chimère with its sophisticated depth. The base is marked by patchouli, which imparts a rich, earthy quality, blending harmoniously with the smoky, woody tones of East Indian vetiver. Abyssinian ambergris provides a luxurious, slightly animalic warmth that deepens the fragrance’s complexity, while castoreum adds a distinctive, leathery undertone that is both bold and intriguing.
The Tibetan musk offers a soft, enveloping warmth that feels both sensual and comforting. Oakmoss infuses the base with a green, slightly damp earthiness, evoking the rich scent of a forest floor. Finally, benzoin contributes a sweet, resinous note that smooths out the base with its warm, balsamic quality.
Together, these elements create a fragrance that is both alluring and sophisticated, capturing the essence of a floral-woody chypre with an enchanting balance of light and dark, modern and classic.
Bottles:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral-woody chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with an aldehydic top note, followed by a narcotic floral heart, resting on a warm, woody, mossy base. It was described by Prince Matchabelli as a "semi-oriental, a brilliant floral blend of roses, jasmine, gardenia and lily of the valley touched with a subtle splurge of mysterious spices and darker notes."
- Top notes: aldehydes, gardenia, galbanum, Calabrian bergamot
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, narcissus, rose, tuberose, orris, carnation, ylang ylang
- Base notes: spices, patchouli, East Indian vetiver, Abyssinian ambergris, castoreum, Tibetan musk, oakmoss, benzoin
Scent Profile:
Chimère unfolds with an intricate dance of scents, beginning with its top notes that deliver an immediately striking impression. The initial burst of aldehydes introduces a sparkling, effervescent quality, reminiscent of crisp, clean air infused with a touch of modern sophistication.
This is seamlessly complemented by the vibrant, zesty brightness of Calabrian bergamot, which adds a fresh, citrusy lift that feels both invigorating and elegant. The inclusion of galbanum introduces a green, slightly resinous note, evoking the crispness of fresh foliage, and adds a complex, slightly smoky nuance to the opening.
As Chimère evolves, the heart reveals a rich, narcotic blend of floral notes that captures the essence of opulence. Gardenia lends its creamy, velvety texture, enveloping the senses in a lush, almost intoxicating fragrance that is both exotic and inviting. The delicate yet potent scent of lily of the valley adds a touch of innocence and purity, while jasmine contributes a deep, sensuous richness that enhances the floral bouquet with its warm, heady aroma.
Narcissus brings a green, slightly spicy facet, enriching the floral accord with a hint of earthiness. Rose provides a classic floral elegance, its romantic and timeless scent mingling seamlessly with the sweetness of tuberose and the refined, powdery notes of orris. Carnation introduces a subtle spicy edge, adding depth and complexity, while ylang ylang offers a luscious, tropical sweetness that balances the heart with its exotic flair.
The fragrance then settles into a warm, woody, and mossy base that anchors Chimère with its sophisticated depth. The base is marked by patchouli, which imparts a rich, earthy quality, blending harmoniously with the smoky, woody tones of East Indian vetiver. Abyssinian ambergris provides a luxurious, slightly animalic warmth that deepens the fragrance’s complexity, while castoreum adds a distinctive, leathery undertone that is both bold and intriguing.
The Tibetan musk offers a soft, enveloping warmth that feels both sensual and comforting. Oakmoss infuses the base with a green, slightly damp earthiness, evoking the rich scent of a forest floor. Finally, benzoin contributes a sweet, resinous note that smooths out the base with its warm, balsamic quality.
Together, these elements create a fragrance that is both alluring and sophisticated, capturing the essence of a floral-woody chypre with an enchanting balance of light and dark, modern and classic.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Chimère by Prince Matchabelli, a fragrance celebrated for its intricate floral-woody composition, was discontinued around 1990. This discontinuation marked the end of an era for a scent that had captivated many with its rich, multi-faceted aroma. Launched in 1979, Chimère was designed to embody both elegance and mystery, appealing to the sophisticated tastes of its time. The perfume’s deep, narcotic floral heart and warm, woody base resonated with the desires of women seeking a fragrance that was both luxurious and complex.
The decision to discontinue Chimère most likely stemmed from the evolving trends in the fragrance market during the late 1980s. As the industry shifted towards new and innovative scents, established fragrances like Chimère faced the challenge of remaining relevant amid changing preferences. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Chimère remains a notable example of Prince Matchabelli's dedication to crafting perfumes that were not only stylish but also timeless in their appeal. The fragrance’s departure from the market reflects the transient nature of fashion and the continual evolution of fragrance trends.
The reason I now have an extensive collection of perfumes is because of Chimere, I won it as a prize as a young girl, and have loved perfume ever since.
ReplyDeleteMy favorite perfume from the release date to the discontinued date. I still miss it.
ReplyDelete