Damas by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1930, draws its name from both the legendary city of Damascus and the revered damask rose. This evocative choice imbues the fragrance with a rich tapestry of historical and botanical significance. Damascus, known for its ancient grandeur and its legendary history as a center of culture and trade, conjures images of opulence and mystique. The damask rose, celebrated for its exquisite scent and delicate beauty, adds a layer of floral sophistication and sensuality to the perfume’s narrative.
The name Damas likely evokes a sense of exotic allure and historical romance, referencing the storied past of the city as well as the rose’s distinguished place in perfumery. During this era, the fascination with the Middle East and its luxurious traditions was prominent, driven by archaeological discoveries and a general Western fascination with the exotic. The 1930s saw a wave of interest in Eastern cultures, and Damas would have resonated with the zeitgeist, embodying a sense of exoticism and elegance that was both aspirational and intriguing.
In the context of perfume, Damas would be interpreted as a fragrance that captures the essence of the damask rose in its purest form. Described as a spicy and pungent damask rose soliflore, this perfume would have offered a bold and sophisticated floral experience. Its rich, spicy character would set it apart from the more subdued floral fragrances of the time, catering to women seeking a statement scent that conveyed both luxury and individuality.
Launched during a period when perfume trends were shifting towards more complex and exotic compositions, Damas was aligned with the growing interest in fragrances that combined rich, opulent notes with a sense of historical and geographical depth. While floral scents were popular, the spicy and pungent profile of Damas distinguished it from other offerings, making it a notable addition to the market and appealing to women who wanted their fragrance to reflect both elegance and a touch of the exotic.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was a spicy and pungent damask rose soliflore fragrance for women.
- Top notes: clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, saffron
- Middle notes: damask rose, carnation, cardamom
- Base notes: benzoin, labdanum, patchouli, musk, ambergris
Scent Profile:
As you experience the fragrance of Damas, the initial impression is a vibrant and invigorating blend of spices. The top notes present a heady mix of clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and saffron. Clove introduces itself with a bold and penetrating warmth, its sharp, spicy scent enveloping your senses with an almost pungent intensity. This is immediately followed by the rich, sweet-spicy aroma of cinnamon, which adds a comforting warmth and a hint of exotic allure. Nutmeg contributes a slightly sweet, nutty spiciness that complements the cinnamon’s warmth, adding an additional layer of complexity. The saffron adds an exotic, slightly leathery undertone, enhancing the richness of the spice blend with a sophisticated, golden hue.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its floral core. The Damask rose takes center stage, offering a lush, velvety aroma that is both deep and radiant. This rose is known for its complex, multi-dimensional scent, combining rich floral notes with subtle hints of fruitiness. It’s accompanied by carnation, which infuses the composition with a spicy, peppery edge that adds intrigue and vibrancy. Cardamom introduces a fresh, slightly citrusy spiciness, providing a bright contrast to the richer floral and spicy elements, and enhancing the overall complexity of the fragrance.
In the base notes, the fragrance settles into a warm, sensual foundation. Benzoin adds a rich, balsamic sweetness, with its vanilla-like warmth creating a comforting and opulent backdrop. Labdanum contributes a deep, resinous quality with a hint of animalic undertones, adding an element of sensuality and depth. Patchouli provides an earthy, woody aroma, grounding the fragrance with its rich, slightly spicy character. Musk adds a warm, animalic richness, ensuring that the scent lingers with a seductive and memorable presence. Ambergris rounds out the base with its sweet, salty, and slightly marine note, adding a touch of elegance and complexity.
The interplay of these elements in Damas creates a fragrance that is both spicy and floral, with a rich, multifaceted character. The Damask rose soliflore is enhanced by a bold array of spices, creating a scent that is both captivating and timeless, reflecting the opulence and sophistication of its era.
Perfume and Essential Oil Review, 1930:
"Prince Matchabelli perfumes, New York City, has recently perfected four new odors which he has just paced upon the market. These new perfumes are known as Queen of the Nile, Queen of Babylon - two rather spicy and exotic, and Jungle Flower and Damas - two floral odors. The first three of these will be packaged in the well known glass pyramid bottle, but for the Damas a new rose and gold bottle has been developed."
Theatre Magazine, 1931:
"These four new fascinating odeurs have been created for this season by Prince Matchabelli : Queen of Babylon + Jungle Flower + Damas + Queen of the Nile. They are obtainable only in the most exclusive shops of New York."
The New Yorker, 1935:
"There is also a growing yen for Damas, so they tell us."
Bottles:
Damas was originally housed inside of the familiar Matchabelli crown bottles. This example is of clear glass and holds 1 ounce of parfum. It measures 2.5" tall x 2" wide. The previous owner had dipped the bottle in wax to preserve freshness and to prevent leakage of contents, a practice that was suggested for several years. The cardboard box is printed with "Made in France" on the base.
The example below is how the bottle looks without wax covering the mouth and neck.
Starting in 1947, Damas was contained in a lovely crystal bottle much different in shape than the usual crown flacon. This bottle has a flared, stylized crown shape. It was fitted with a ground glass stopped molded with the Matchabelli crest. It held 1.5 oz of Parfum and stands 3.5" tall. The base of the bottle has a gold foil paper label reading "Manufactured by Les Parfums du Prince Matchabelli, S.A. Paris, France. Distributed by Prince Matchabelli, Inc. New York, NY." The cardboard box is printed with "Made in France" on the base.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Damas by Prince Matchabelli was a captivating fragrance that, unfortunately, is no longer available today. Despite its early appeal and distinctive character, the perfume was discontinued at an undetermined date. Historical records and advertisements reveal that Damas was actively marketed up until 1947, after which it seemingly vanished from the public eye. The absence of promotional material or sales references beyond this period suggests that the fragrance gradually faded from the market, possibly due to shifts in consumer preferences or the evolving landscape of perfumery. The lack of information about its exact discontinuation date leaves a veil of mystery over the final chapter of Damas, yet it remains a poignant reminder of a bygone era of elegant and sophisticated scent.
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