In 1934, Prince Matchabelli crafted a perfume in honor of the renowned stage star Grace Moore, a woman celebrated not only for her exceptional talent but also for her fiery, tempestuous personality. Described as "feminine with a touch of a vixen" in a newspaper article, the fragrance captured Moore's magnetic presence and vivacity. The Prince, known for creating perfumes exclusively for royalty, found inspiration in Moore's dynamic character, leading to a scent that was as vivid and spirited as the star herself.
"My newest perfume was created for Grace Moore, always before I created perfumes only for those of royal birth. But Miss Moore - ah- she is the queen of the stage, so I make a perfume to suit her, a perfume, gay, vivid, like she is. Then one day I am driving in the motor of the greatest star of all. She asked me if, I myself had created Miss Moore's perfume. I had to admit I did it. Suddenly she stopped the car. "Get out!" she ordered me. Jealous you see?"
This gesture of admiration, however, did not go unnoticed by the Prince's rumored lover, Katharine Hepburn. According to an article from the same year, the Prince recounted a dramatic incident revealing Hepburn's jealousy. While driving in her car, Hepburn inquired if the Prince had indeed crafted the perfume for Moore. Upon confirmation, she abruptly ordered him out of the vehicle, her jealousy evident in her reaction. The Prince, though reluctant to comply, made a promise to create a fragrance for Hepburn, vowing to capture her unique essence—a task he acknowledged would be "difficult, very difficult."
Thus, the creation of Katherine the Great was born from this promise. Launched in 1935, the perfume was named in honor of the legendary historical figures, reflecting both Hepburn's formidable presence and the grandeur of Russian royalty. The fragrance's creation was a tribute to Hepburn's complex personality and the Prince's commitment to capturing her essence.
By 1939, the Journal of the Royal Society of Arts heralded the perfume with reverence, noting the enduring legacy of Katherine the Great. It spoke of how, even after centuries, the spirit of Katherine, and the warmth of her love, was immortalized in the powerful and inspiring scent crafted by Prince Matchabelli. This perfume, rich in historical resonance, embodied the enduring allure and passion of its namesake, a testament to the Prince's artistry and the timeless nature of his creations.
Journal of the Royal Society of Arts, 1939:
"...But Katherine never forgot . . . their love lasted as long as life. Two centuries have passed and another Russian steps forward with a gift in Katherine's name. Prince Matchabelli, prince and perfumer, from his flacons and formulae have evolved a perfume that embodies the warmth and inspiration of her love. A thrilling, powerful perfume called Katherine the Great."
Fragrance Composition:
So what did it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental perfume for women. Suitable for furs. It was described as being "nobly scented — yet so utterly feminine. Bouquet fragrance." Also described as a "sweet, spicy blend" and "cool and barbaric like her foreign soul."
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, coriander, lily of the valley, hyacinth, lemon, neroli, mint
- Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, carnation, orange blossom, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, cardamom, rose, mimosa, ylang ylang, lilac
- Base notes: Abyssinian ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, East Indian vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, juniper, pine
"If she is imperious, worldly, a little exotic, give her Katherine the Great." - 1947 ad
Scent Profile:
Katherine the Great opens with an intricate blend of top notes that immediately engages the senses with a burst of freshness and subtle spice. Calabrian bergamot greets you first, its zesty, citrusy aroma offering a bright, invigorating start that feels like a splash of sunlight on your skin. Coriander adds a touch of warmth with its slightly spicy, aromatic quality, balancing the freshness with a hint of exotic complexity. Lily of the valley emerges next, its delicate, green floral scent evoking the image of a serene, blooming garden in early spring. Hyacinth follows, rich and sweet with its heady, full-bodied floral aroma that fills the air with lush vibrancy. Lemon provides a tangy burst of brightness, its crisp, clean scent cutting through the sweetness with refreshing clarity. Neroli contributes a light, slightly bitter citrus note, adding a sophisticated depth and a subtle hint of warmth. Finally, mint introduces a cooling, invigorating sensation, its crisp, green freshness bringing a breath of cool air to the bouquet.
As the fragrance transitions to its middle notes, it reveals a complex, floral heart interwoven with warm, spicy undertones. Orange blossom unfolds with a creamy, rich floral scent that envelops you in its luxurious sweetness, while jasmine adds an opulent, warm floral depth that resonates with sensual allure. Carnation infuses the heart with its spicy, clove-like aroma, providing a touch of classic elegance. The scent of orange blossom repeats, reinforcing the perfume's creamy, floral character. Cinnamon introduces a warm, spicy note, its sweet, woody essence mingling with the other spices for a rich, aromatic complexity. Nutmeg complements the cinnamon with its warm, slightly sweet, and nutty aroma, adding depth and richness. Clove adds a pungent, aromatic quality, heightening the spicy profile of the fragrance. Cardamom offers a hint of exotic spice with its warm, slightly sweet, and herbal aroma. Rose lends a timeless, romantic floral note, its velvety sweetness blending seamlessly with the other elements. Mimosa adds a powdery, soft sweetness, enhancing the fragrance's overall softness. Ylang ylang contributes an exotic, sweet floral nuance with a touch of sensuality, while lilac imparts a soft, slightly fruity floral scent that evokes a sense of delicate springtime blooms.
In the base notes, Abyssinian ambergris brings a rich, warm marine note, evoking a sense of luxurious depth and mystery. Tibetan musk adds an earthy, animalic quality, imparting a profound sensuality that anchors the fragrance. Abyssinian civet enhances the base with a musky, slightly animalistic note, deepening the fragrance’s complexity. Mysore sandalwood wraps the scent in its creamy, smooth, and woody aroma, providing a grounding and sophisticated base. Vanilla sweetens the composition with its rich, warm, and comforting essence, adding a touch of indulgence. Benzoin contributes a resinous, balsamic note, its sweet warmth enriching the base with a hint of ancient opulence. East Indian vetiver adds a green, earthy depth, balancing the sweetness with a sophisticated, natural richness. Patchouli introduces a rich, earthy, and slightly spicy tone, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity with its distinctive character. Oakmoss provides a mossy, woody undertone, evoking the scent of a dense, ancient forest. Finally, juniper and pine add a crisp, fresh, and slightly resinous touch, recalling the invigorating scent of a wooded landscape.
Katherine the Great is a masterful floral oriental fragrance that combines freshness, warmth, and depth, offering an olfactory experience as elegant and timeless as the furs it was designed to complement.
Bottles:
c1930s photos from ebay seller my*unique*boutique
c1930s Katherine the Great 4 oz eau de cologne, photo by ebay seller essencebouquet
Fate of Fragrance:
Katherine the Great, the evocative floral oriental perfume created by Prince Matchabelli, was discontinued at an unknown date, though it continued to capture the essence of its time well into the 1950s. Despite its eventual withdrawal from the market, the fragrance remained available for purchase in 1955, a testament to its enduring appeal and the lasting impact of its distinctive scent.
The perfume's captivating blend of top notes—Calabrian bergamot, lily of the valley, hyacinth, lemon, neroli, and mint—offered a refreshing and invigorating introduction, while its middle notes of orange blossom, jasmine, carnation, spices, rose, mimosa, ylang ylang, and lilac created a richly layered floral heart. The base notes, featuring Abyssinian ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, East Indian vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, juniper, and pine, provided a complex and lasting finish that combined warmth, sensuality, and a touch of the exotic.
Even as fashion and fragrance trends evolved, Katherine the Great retained its allure, symbolizing a bygone era of opulence and sophisticated charm. The perfume's continued presence on store shelves in 1955 highlighted its timeless appeal and the powerful legacy of its creator, Prince Matchabelli.
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