Infanta by Prince Matchabelli c1937

Prince Matchabelli’s choice of the name "Infanta" for his 1937 fragrance reflects a sophisticated and evocative connection to Spanish royalty and historical grandeur. The term "Infanta" is derived from Spanish, where it refers to a princess who is the daughter or younger sister of the reigning monarch, but not the heir apparent. The choice of this name suggests a perfume designed to embody the elegance and nobility associated with royal lineage.

In evoking the title "Infanta," the fragrance conjures images of royal splendor and historical sophistication. Women of the time would have associated the name with the refined and elite qualities of Spanish aristocracy, particularly reflecting on the life of Maria Theresa of Spain. Born as an Infanta and later becoming Queen of France and Navarre as the wife of King Louis XIV, Maria Theresa was renowned for her virtue and resilience amidst personal hardships and political complexities. Her life, marked by both grandeur and personal struggle, would have provided a rich source of inspiration for the fragrance’s identity.

The perfume itself, characterized as a heavy, sweet, spicy floral oriental with a dry, dusty, smoky base, would resonate with the opulence and complexity attributed to royal figures like Maria Theresa. Its aromatic profile aligns with the era’s trend for rich, exotic scents that often featured deep, intricate layers. During the late 1930s, the fragrance market was dominated by luxurious and extravagant perfumes that catered to a desire for opulence and escape from the everyday.

"Infanta" stood out by embodying the lavish and multifaceted essence of its namesake, distinguishing itself in a market saturated with similar heavy and floral orientals. This fragrance’s choice of a historically significant name and its complex scent profile likely appealed to women seeking a sense of regal sophistication and a connection to historical grandeur.

During the 1930s, the film industry also reflected themes of royalty and historical drama. While there were no films explicitly dedicated to Maria Theresa, the era was rich with cinematic portrayals of historical figures and romanticized versions of aristocratic life. Such films would have amplified the cultural resonance of a perfume named "Infanta," linking it to a broader narrative of historical prestige and personal drama.

Thus, "Infanta" by Prince Matchabelli not only aligned with contemporary trends in luxurious perfumery but also capitalized on a historical and emotional narrative that would have deeply resonated with women of the time.

Maria Theresa with Her son, the Dauphin, Louis of France, Pierre Mignard 1661

The Launch:

On November 4, 1937, The Prince Matchabelli Corporation hosted an elegant cocktail party at the prestigious Hotel Pierre in New York to unveil their latest fragrance, Infanta. This sophisticated event marked a significant moment for the company, as it showcased their newest creation amidst the grandeur of one of New York City's most iconic venues.

The choice of the Hotel Pierre, known for its opulent décor and renowned clientele, set the perfect stage for the introduction of Infanta. The atmosphere of the evening was likely one of refined luxury, reflecting the perfume’s own rich and complex character. Guests were treated to an exclusive preview of Infanta, a fragrance that promised to embody the elegance and historical allure associated with its name.

The cocktail party not only highlighted the release of Infanta but also underscored Prince Matchabelli’s commitment to sophistication and innovation in the perfume industry. By hosting the event in such a distinguished location, the company reinforced the fragrance’s association with high society and exclusivity, appealing to an audience that valued both luxury and historical prestige.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a heavy, sweet, spicy floral oriental perfume with a dry, dusty, smoky base note. It was described as the following: heavy, sultry, dry, dusty, spicy, smoky.

• Top notes: grape, iris, Calabrian bergamot, nutmeg, bergamot, lemon, cardamom
• Middle notes: orange blossom, carnation, ylang ylang, rose, gardenia, jasmine, opoponax, labdanum cinnamon, clove, violet leaf
• Base notes: cedar, labdanum, frankincense, patchouli, orris, vanilla, Abyssinian ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, East Indian vetiver, oakmoss, benzoin, leather, tonka bean, civet, Tonkin musk, myrrh, olibanum

 

"Infanta is the name of the new perfume and it has been called by those who have tried it one of the most exciting, unusual perfumes of the year, 1937, Haunting romance, exotically ephemeral and exciting, tantalizing. Infanta in one of the most disturbing perfumes on the market "

Stage, 1937:

"MATCHABELLI— "Infanta", a heavy, exotic perfume, is the newest one here, and comes in a new type of crown bottle resting on a very royal-looking square white cushion."

Vogue, 1937:

"DISCOVERIES IN BEAUTY "Infanta." Prince Matchabelli's new and knowing perfume, is vividly beautiful. It comes in a new type of Matchabelli crown, round instead of oval, and rests regally on a cushion of royal-blue velvet."

Etude, 1937:

"Black as vivid to the sense of smell as it is to the sense of sight, Weil has created Noir perfume to be worn only with black! ... Prince Matchabelli's newest presentation "Infanta," is another example of the perfume trend toward the strange.."

Etude: The Music Magazine - Volume 56, 1938:

"INFANTA. Matchabelli also produces Infanta, equally regal with its deep and tantalizing atmosphere of mystery and flirtation from grilled balconies; of fans and flashing blades; of Spanish grandees strolling and strutting; of the pomp and medieval brilliance in the time when Spain was discovering and conquering the Americas. An imaginative, sultry, smoky odor, brought to life by the heavy sweetness of Spanish grapes and exotic gardens."

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:

"Prince Matchabelli's contribution to the Spanish influence— "Infanta" perfume and a make-up to go with this shade of red for November 1939."

Scent Profile:

As you delve into the scent of Infanta, the experience unfolds through a complex interplay of ingredients, each offering a distinctive aromatic character.

The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of grape, offering a juicy, sun-warmed sweetness that immediately captivates the senses. This freshness is complemented by the velvety smoothness of iris, which introduces a refined, powdery elegance. Calabrian bergamot adds a sparkling citrus note, reminiscent of sunlit Italian landscapes, while lemon contributes a bright, tangy sharpness that invigorates the fragrance’s top layer. The warmth of nutmeg introduces a comforting, exotic spice, enhancing the initial sweetness with its rich, aromatic depth. Cardamom further enriches this opening with its sweet, spicy complexity, adding an exotic flair to the fragrance’s fresh start.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a lush, floral bouquet. Orange blossom envelops you with its radiant, intoxicating aroma, reminiscent of blooming citrus groves. The rich, spicy fragrance of carnation adds a warm, floral depth, while ylang ylang imparts an exotic, tropical sweetness. Rose provides a classic, romantic touch with its deep, velvety scent, blending seamlessly with the creamy richness of gardenia. The heady, sweet aroma of jasmine enhances the heart with its alluring intensity. The inclusion of opoponax and labdanum introduces warm, resinous sweetness with balsamic undertones, while cinnamon and clove infuse the fragrance with a warm, spicy richness. Violet leaf adds a fresh, green contrast, providing a crisp, herbaceous note that balances the sweeter floral elements.

The base of Infanta is where the fragrance truly reveals its depth and complexity. Cedar offers a dry, woody scent that grounds the fragrance, while labdanum adds a rich, resinous sweetness with a touch of opulence. The smoky, resinous aroma of frankincense introduces an ethereal, meditative quality, enhancing the fragrance’s mystical allure. Patchouli provides an earthy, woody depth, adding to the fragrance’s exotic character. Orris contributes a creamy, powdery texture, enhancing the base with a refined, luxurious touch. The sweet, warm aroma of vanilla softens the base, adding a comforting richness. 

Abyssinian ambergris provides a rare, marine-like depth with its warm, animalic undertones. Mysore sandalwood adds a smooth, creamy warmth, while East Indian vetiver introduces a smoky, earthy complexity. Oakmoss brings a natural, forest-like quality with its rich, damp aroma. The resinous sweetness of benzoin and the bold, rugged scent of leather enhance the base with their creamy, spicy, and deep characteristics. Tonka bean adds a rich, vanilla-like warmth, while civet and Tonkin musk provide a musky, sensual richness. Finally, the resinous warmth of myrrh and the incense-like quality of olibanum complete the fragrance with their deep, contemplative notes.

Infanta’s intricate composition weaves together these diverse ingredients into a rich tapestry of scent, creating a fragrance that is both opulent and multifaceted.

Bottles:

Infanta was elegantly presented in a distinctive crown-shaped bottle, reminiscent of the regal packaging associated with the fragrance Simonetta, though with notable differences. Unlike the Simonetta bottle, which was adorned with a sleek black finish, the Infanta bottle was designed with a unique crown motif that diverged from the typical Prince Matchabelli style. This bottle’s crown shape adds a touch of regal charm, symbolizing the grandeur of the fragrance it encased.

Two sizes of the Infanta bottle were offered, each embodying its own form of elegance. The 3/4 oz parfum bottle, standing at 2.25 inches tall, exudes a more substantial presence, capturing the opulence of the fragrance within. In contrast, the smaller 5/24 oz bottle, measuring 1.5 inches in height, offers a more delicate and compact alternative, making it a versatile choice for those who appreciate both luxury and practicality. Each size reflects the same royal inspiration but caters to different preferences in presentation and use.

The "Scepter" bottle was used to hold the Eau de Cologne. Two sizes were used:

• 1 oz
• 2 oz

Fate of Fragrance:

Infanta, a fragrance celebrated for its opulent blend of heavy, sweet, and spicy floral notes, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. Despite its formal discontinuation, Infanta continued to be available for purchase as late as 1953, reflecting its enduring appeal and the continued demand for its distinctive scent profile. This lingering presence in the market underscores the perfume's popularity and the lasting impression it made on its audience, even as newer fragrances emerged.