Russian Easter Lily by Prince Matchabelli c1938

Russian Easter Lily by Prince Matchabelli, introduced in 1938, was a distinctive addition to the fragrance market, both in name and composition. The choice of "Russian Easter Lily" for this perfume was a nod to the elegance and symbolic resonance of the lily in Russian culture. The term "Russian Easter Lily" refers to the Lilium candidum, also known as the Madonna Lily. This flower is renowned for its purity and beauty, often associated with Easter celebrations and religious symbolism.

The name "Russian Easter Lily" evokes a sense of grace and refinement, conjuring images of delicate, white lilies blooming in a serene, elegant setting. It brings to mind the fresh, clean beauty of springtime, alongside a hint of the exotic allure tied to its Russian association. The perfume's name suggests an air of sophistication and a nod to the floral traditions that celebrate the lily's beauty and symbolism.

In perfume terms, "Russian Easter Lily" would be interpreted as embodying a fresh, floral essence with a touch of the exotic. The fragrance is described as cool and refreshing, setting it apart from the more common Bermuda lily perfumes of the time, which were typically heavier and sweeter. This perfume's unique character lies in its piquant, less sweet profile, offering a crisp and invigorating alternative to the more opulent and heady floral scents prevalent in the 1930s.

Launched during a period when floral fragrances were popular but often leaned towards richer, more opulent profiles, Russian Easter Lily provided a refreshing contrast. Its light and airy composition would have appealed to women seeking a sophisticated yet less overpowering scent, reflecting a modern sensibility in the fragrance trends of the era. This fragrance fit into the broader market by offering a novel take on floral scents, distinguishing itself through its unique freshness and subtlety.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. A quite different perfume than the more common Bermuda lily. More piquant, less sweet. It is not a heavy, heady fragrance but cool and refreshing.

• Top notes: cassie, aldehydes, jonquil, lily of the valley, neroli, bergamot, green note
• Middle notes: clove, carnation, Madonna lily, jasmine, rose, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang ylang
• Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, rosewood, vanilla, civet, tonka bean, musk, bitter almond

Scent Profile:

Russian Easter Lily stands as a refreshing and invigorating fragrance, distinguished from its sweeter, heavier counterparts like the Bermuda lily. From the very first whiff, the top notes present a vibrant and lively opening. Cassie brings an earthy, slightly spicy facet that dances playfully with the aldehydes, which lend a sparkling, effervescent quality. 

Jonquil introduces a delicate, green-floral note reminiscent of early spring, blending seamlessly with the crisp, clean scent of lily of the valley and the bright, citrusy freshness of neroli. Bergamot adds a zesty, slightly tangy twist that sharpens the freshness, while green notes contribute a subtle, dewy green undertone that enhances the overall coolness of the fragrance.

As the scent evolves into the heart notes, clove provides a warm, spicy edge that contrasts beautifully with the floral richness of carnation, adding depth and complexity. Madonna lily, the central theme of this perfume, delivers a refined, fresh floral essence with a hint of spicy sophistication. 

This is complemented by the creamy, voluptuous tones of jasmine and the elegant sweetness of rose, while tuberose infuses a hint of creamy richness without overwhelming the freshness. Orange blossom and ylang ylang round out the bouquet with their lush, exotic floral notes, adding a touch of tropical sophistication.

The base notes of sandalwood provide a smooth, creamy foundation, grounding the fragrance with its warm, woody aroma. Ambergris imparts a subtle, marine warmth that enhances the perfume’s longevity and adds a layer of complexity. 

Rosewood contributes a soft, spicy woodiness, while vanilla offers a delicate sweetness that balances the more intense elements. Civet adds an animalic nuance, giving the fragrance a slightly wild edge, while tonka bean introduces a touch of almond-like warmth. Finally, musk provides a soft, sensual base, and bitter almond lends a faintly nutty, slightly bitter undertone, perfecting the fragrance’s unique, piquant character.

Russian Easter Lily captures the essence of a fresh, cool spring morning with its clean, invigorating floral notes and subtle spicy touches, making it a distinctive choice in the perfume landscape of the era.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1938;

"Russian Easter Lily Eau de Cologne, a delightful fragrance for the first spring days, is one of Prince Matchabelli's contributions to the Easter season. Here is a fragrance that can be worn with grace with tailored daytime clothes, printed evening frocks or with tweeds. This new cologne is packaged in the same sceptre bottle used by Matchabelli for colognes.."

The New Yorker - Volume 18, Issues 1-10 - Page 7, 1942:

"No one has known better how to make a moment momentous than Prince Matchabelli. His perfume for this significant season is Russian Easter Lily, richest of flower perfumes . . . somehow in special harmony with this Easter. . . this Spring of high emotion. Prince Matchabelli's Russian Easter Lily: $5.50, $10.00, $18.00."

Esquire, 1946:

"A magnificent new gift ... the Prince Matchabelli crown bottle suspended in lucid loveliness ... a new-world setting for these exquisite flower perfumes . . . Russian Easter Lily, Georgian."

Cue, 1948:

"A little gift of great charm is Prince Matchabelli's hand painted Easter egg containing three well known fragrances, Stradivari, Duchess of York and Ave Maria in miniature crown bottles. The glistening eggs are decorated with flowers. $5 plus tax. Matchabelli also has a little Easter bonnet, a tiny black sailor trimmed with frills of  net, under the crown of which are two tiny bottles of Stradivari and Easter Lily. This little remembrance is $3 at Lord and Taylor."

Bottles:

c1940s Prince Matchabelli Easter Lily perfume bottle and stopper as a crown in clear glass with gold detail, label, in Lucite box. btl. 2 1/8 in. Photo from Perfume Bottle Auctions.

1/2 oz perfume, photos from worthpoint

Easter Bonnet perfume presentation, 1/8 oz Stradivari and 1/8 oz Easter Lily parfum in crown bottles. Photos from worthpoint.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Russian Easter Lily was discontinued at an unspecified date, though it remained available for purchase as late as 1955. This discontinuation likely reflects broader shifts in the perfume industry and changing consumer preferences over time. By the mid-20th century, the fragrance market was evolving rapidly, with new trends and ingredients influencing the direction of perfume creation. The scent's unique profile—fresh and piquant rather than the more traditional sweet, heavy floral compositions—may have contributed to its eventual phase-out.

The decline in availability of Russian Easter Lily could also be attributed to the post-war adjustments in raw materials and supply chains, which affected many fragrance producers. With the advent of new and innovative fragrances in the 1950s, there was a significant shift in consumer tastes, which could have rendered the once-popular Russian Easter Lily less appealing in a market that increasingly favored different olfactory experiences. Thus, while Russian Easter Lily was a distinctive and refreshing choice during its time, its eventual discontinuation marks the natural progression of evolving fragrance trends.