In 1934, Prince Matchabelli introduced a fragrance named Grace Moore, a choice steeped in both homage and contemporary flair. The perfume was created in honor of Grace Moore, a celebrated stage star renowned not only for her remarkable vocal talent but also for her strikingly dynamic personality. Known for her beauty and a tempestuous spirit, Moore captivated audiences with a combination of elegance and fervor. The perfume mirrored this duality, described in the press as "feminine with a touch of a vixen," reflecting both grace and an alluring edge.
The name Grace Moore conjures images of glamour and sophistication, intertwined with a hint of rebelliousness. The elegance associated with Moore's stage presence, coupled with her fiery temperament, suggests a fragrance that embodies both refinement and an underlying boldness. In a perfume, this name evokes a scent that is not just sweet or delicate but also has an intriguing complexity—a blend that is sophisticated yet spirited, much like the woman it honors.
For women of the 1930s, a perfume named Grace Moore would have been particularly appealing. The era was marked by a fascination with the glamorous lives of film and stage stars, and a fragrance named after a prominent figure would resonate with the desire to capture a bit of that celebrity allure. It was a time when perfumes were increasingly being marketed with a narrative that linked them to personalities and lifestyles, reflecting both the social aspirations and the changing roles of women.
Grace Moore was launched during a period of vibrant experimentation in the perfume industry. The 1930s saw a move towards richer, more complex fragrances, and Prince Matchabelli's creation fit well within this trend. Described as "rich, spicy, and tantalizing," with a "faintly tart" quality, it aligned with the era's evolving tastes. The fragrance’s spicy warmth and subtle sharpness echoed the opulence and sophistication of the time, distinguishing it from more straightforward floral scents and underscoring a growing appreciation for layered, dynamic compositions. In this context, Grace Moore was both a reflection of contemporary trends and a unique tribute to a star whose name was synonymous with a blend of grace and audacity.
Harrisburg Telegraph, 1934:
"Grace Moore Prince Matchabelli Perfume Presenting - with a bow this new serenade in scent. Created by Prince Matchabelli in tribute to the haunting eloquence of Miss Moore's voice as she sings in the Columbia picture, "One Night of Love." A fragrance as lyric as her songs. As lingering as melody. In the princely Matchabelli coronet, $4.50 to $37."
In another article from that same year, he explains why he did it and why his rumored lover Katharine Hepburn was so jealous.
"My newest perfume was created for Grace Moore, always before I created perfumes only for those of royal birth. But Miss Moore - ah- she is the queen of the stage., so I make a perfume to suit her, a perfume, gay, vivid, like she is. Then one day I am driving in the motor of the greatest star of all. She asked me if, I myself had created Miss Moore's perfume. I had to admit I did it. Suddenly she stopped the car. "Get out!" she ordered me. Jealous you see?"He then went on to say that he didn't obey her, but made a promise after to sufficiently analyze her personality, that he would create a perfume for her, but added that it was going "to be difficult, very difficult.". From this promise, sprang the perfume Katherine the Great, both named for the famous ladies of history.
Fragrance Composition:
So what did it smell like? It was classified as a rich, spicy fragrance for women with a faintly tart effect.
- Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, mandarin orange, coriander
- Middle notes: clove, cinnamon, carnation, jasmine, ylang ylang
- Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris, benzoin, vetiver, sandalwood
Scent Profile:
Grace Moore opens with a burst of crisp, effervescent aldehydes, their bright, soapy quality giving a sense of clarity and freshness that immediately captures your attention. The initial impression is layered with the tangy zest of lemon, which adds a sharp, invigorating kick. Bergamot follows, infusing the blend with its nuanced citrus notes—fragrant and slightly bitter, yet wonderfully refreshing.
The mandarin orange introduces a sweeter, more rounded citrus aroma, softening the sharpness and adding a touch of warmth. As the top notes unfold, coriander emerges, providing a subtle spiciness with a hint of green, herbaceous undertones that add depth and complexity.
In the heart of the fragrance, the blend transitions into a richly spiced bouquet. Clove makes its presence felt with a warm, pungent aroma, exuding an exotic, almost peppery sweetness that enhances the perfume's opulence. Cinnamon follows with its familiar, comforting spiciness, adding a touch of warmth and depth. The carnation contributes a spicy, slightly peppery floral note, intensifying the fragrance's complexity with its rich, velvety aroma.
Jasmine adds an element of lush, heady sweetness, its rich, floral scent mingling beautifully with the spiciness of the clove and cinnamon. Ylang ylang offers a creamy, exotic sweetness with its floral, somewhat fruity nuances, rounding out the heart notes with an additional layer of depth and intrigue.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a sophisticated, earthy foundation. Patchouli brings a robust, woody earthiness with a slightly sweet, herbal quality that grounds the perfume and adds a lasting depth. Oakmoss imparts a rich, green, and slightly leathery aroma, contributing a touch of forest-like freshness.
Ambergris lends a warm, marine sweetness, adding an opulent, exotic undertone that complements the richness of the base. The benzoin offers a resinous, vanilla-like sweetness that harmonizes with the other base notes, providing a smooth, balsamic richness. Vetiver adds a distinctive, smoky earthiness, its woody and slightly grassy facets enhancing the perfume’s complexity.
Finally, sandalwood envelops the fragrance in a creamy, soft woodiness, its smooth, creamy aroma adding a final, luxurious touch to the scent's overall composition.
Together, these ingredients create a perfume that is rich and spicy with a faintly tart effect, embodying a sophisticated complexity that reflects both the elegance and the subtle daring implied by its namesake.
"Grace Moore Prince Matchabelli Perfume Presenting - with a bow this new serenade in scent. Created by Prince Matchabelli in tribute to the haunting eloquence of Miss Moore's voice as she sings in the Columbia picture, "One Night of Love." A fragrance as lyric as her songs. As lingering as melody. In the princely Matchabelli coronet, $4.50 to $37. "
Harper's Bazaar, 1935:
"Matchabelli's "Grace Moore" perfume is rich and quite dressy; their "Empress of India" is definitely Oriental; in fact it was blended for and is adored by the young Kapurthala Princess."
The New Yorker, 1935;
"WITH the tailored-suit season pressing upon us, there are two recent perfumes that seem to be most appropriate. One is the Matchabelli Grace Moore; the other is Elizabeth"
The Delineator, 1935:
"NIGHT-LIFE PERFUMES. Prince Matchabelli . heard Grace Moore sing and immediately distilled a perfume in her honor, placed it in a crown bottle, and gave it her name."
The New Yorker - Volume 11 - Page 47, 1935:
"Matchabelli : The best still is Duchess of York (lilac), but Grace Moore (tantalizing and spicy), Princess Norina, and Empress of India (very exotic and Oriental) are in great demand."
Redder Than The Rose, 1935:
"Matchabelli: Grace Moore is feminine, tantalizing, jeering and maddening all at once. Duchess of York (lilac predominates) still retains its fastidious public."
Drug and Cosmetic Industry 1935:
"The latest perfume to be introduced is "Grace Moore," and it now ranks second to "Duchess of York."
Bottles:
photos from worthpoint
Fate of the Fragrance:
Grace Moore, a fragrance celebrated for its rich and spicy profile, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains elusive. The perfume was still available for purchase as late as 1942, capturing the attention of those seeking a touch of elegance during a tumultuous time. However, the outbreak of World War II likely played a significant role in its discontinuation. During the war, restrictions on raw materials and disruptions in production made it challenging for many luxury goods, including perfumes, to maintain their place in the market. The scarcity of essential ingredients and the shift in manufacturing priorities undoubtedly contributed to the permanent halt in production, leading to the fragrance's gradual disappearance from the shelves.
No comments:
Post a Comment