Incanto by Simonetta c1955

Launched in 1955 in collaboration with Prince Matchabelli, Incanto by Simonetta was a fragrance designed to capture the essence of its creator, Simonetta Visconti, a renowned Italian fashion designer. The name "Incanto" is derived from the Italian language, meaning "enchantment" or "spell." This choice of name reflects a desire to evoke a sense of magic and allure, aligning perfectly with Visconti’s sophisticated and captivating designs.

The word "Incanto" conjures images of ethereal beauty and romantic allure. It suggests a fragrance that enchants and mesmerizes, evoking feelings of wonder and fascination. In the context of perfume, "Incanto" would be interpreted as a scent that has the power to captivate the senses and leave a lasting impression, much like the enchanting qualities associated with its name. For women of the 1950s, a perfume named "Incanto" would have resonated deeply with the era’s fascination with elegance, mystery, and romance. It would have appealed to their desires for something luxurious and magical, reflecting the sophisticated and glamorous aspects of their lives.

The 1950s was a decade marked by an opulence in fragrance, with many perfumes featuring rich floral and woody notes. During this period, fragrances often embraced a blend of deep, complex scents that conveyed a sense of luxury and refinement. Incanto, with its deep woodsy floral profile and heavy emphasis on jasmine, aligned with these trends, yet it also stood out for its distinctive blend. The perfume’s emphasis on jasmine, a note known for its lush and intoxicating qualities, set it apart from other floral fragrances of the time, which often balanced multiple floral notes with lighter, fresher accents.

Incanto’s deep woodsy floral composition, featuring prominent jasmine, reflected the era’s trend towards luxurious and complex fragrances while also introducing a unique and captivating scent profile. Its association with the fashion-forward Simonetta Visconti and the evocative name "Incanto" made it a memorable addition to the perfume landscape of the 1950s, capturing the essence of enchantment and sophistication that defined the decade.

According to the 1960 publication "Marketing in Latin America," the Prince Matchabelli line of perfumes and toiletries, acquired from Vick Chemical Company in 1958, was crafted to embody a sophisticated "Continental air" that resonated with affluent Latin American consumers. This strategic positioning was designed to enhance the brand’s allure among upper-income individuals, capitalizing on the association with European luxury and elegance.

One notable example highlighted in the publication is Simonetta's Incanto, a fragrance created for Prince Matchabelli by Simonetta of Rome, an esteemed Italian duchess and celebrated couturière. The inclusion of Simonetta’s name and her renowned fashion pedigree added a layer of exclusivity and glamour to the fragrance, reinforcing its prestige. The blend’s association with Simonetta, combined with the iconic crown symbol of the Matchabelli coat of arms, endowed the product with a distinct "snob appeal" that was highly effective in marketing to a discerning audience.

This strategic branding approach leveraged both the high-profile heritage of Simonetta and the prestigious imagery of the Matchabelli emblem to create a perfume that symbolized luxury and sophistication. This combination of high-status elements was instrumental in appealing to the tastes and aspirations of wealthy Latin Americans, ensuring that Simonetta Incanto was perceived not only as a fragrance but as a mark of social status and refinement.

Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office, 1958:

"Simonetta Inc., New York, N. Y. Filed June 3, 1955. INCANTO "Incanto" is an Italian word, an English translation of which would be "spell." For Perfume. First use Apr. 20, 1955. SN 7,084. Eugene-Gallia S. A., Paris, France. Filed Apr. 25, 1956."

Vick Chemical Company Annual Report, 1956:

"Prince Matchabelli successfully introduced its latest cologne - Spring Fancy- in the spring of 1955. Incanto, an Italian perfume and cologne in companion were market tested in the spring in preparation for national introduction this fall under the sponsorship of the famous Italian couturier - Simonetta of Rome. "

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a deep woodsy floral fragrance for women, heavy on the jasmine with accents of tobacco and oakmoss. It was described as having the "essence of the Italian spirit."

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, lemon
• Middle notes: Sicilian jasmine, rose, Italian mignonette, lily of the valley, ylang ylang
• Base notes: tobacco, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk, cedar, amber

Vogue, 1956:

"Simonetta, famous for her Italian fashions, has extended her designing talents to perfume. The subtle, velvety rich fragrance of "Incanto" is the result. Added now (for lighter spell-casting, perhaps?) is this cologne that sprays mistily from a jet black flask."

Scent Profile:

Incanto, a deep woodsy floral fragrance for women, offers a complex olfactory experience that captures the essence of Italian sophistication. As you first encounter this scent, the top notes greet you with a vibrant burst of bergamot. This citrus note imparts a fresh, zesty quality, reminiscent of sunlit Italian groves. Aldehydes add an airy, slightly soapy clarity that brightens the initial impression, while a hint of lemon infuses a crisp, tangy brightness, evoking the sparkling zest of a Mediterranean afternoon.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a lush floral bouquet. The Sicilian jasmine dominates, enveloping you in its rich, intoxicating sweetness. This jasmine is deep and heady, reminiscent of warm Italian evenings. The rose adds a classic, romantic touch with its velvety, soft floral notes that blend seamlessly with the jasmine. 

Italian mignonette introduces a delicate, green floral nuance, enhancing the fragrance's freshness with its sweet and herbaceous quality. Lily of the valley contributes a subtle, dewy softness, adding a touch of elegance. Ylang ylang completes the floral heart with its exotic, creamy sweetness, rounding out the bouquet with a hint of opulence.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a deep, rich composition. Tobacco lends a warm, smoky undertone that adds a touch of rugged sophistication, reminiscent of aged leather and cozy firesides. Oakmoss brings a forest-like depth, evoking the earthy, damp richness of a woodland floor. Sandalwood adds a creamy, woody smoothness that enhances the fragrance’s warmth and complexity. Patchouli infuses an earthy, spicy quality, blending seamlessly with the woody notes. 

Vetiver offers a green, woody depth with a hint of smokiness, grounding the fragrance with its distinctive, earthy aroma. Musk provides a subtle, sensual undertone, adding an element of warmth and allure. Cedar contributes a sharp, resinous woodiness that adds structure to the base. Finally, amber introduces a golden, resinous sweetness, rounding out the fragrance with its rich, warm, and slightly balsamic notes.

Together, these elements create a perfume that is deeply evocative of the Italian spirit—sophisticated, lush, and enduringly elegant.

Product Line:

In 1960, the Incanto fragrance line offered a range of products designed to cater to various preferences and needs. The collection featured multiple formats, each priced to reflect its size and convenience.

The 3 oz Cologne, priced at $5.00, was ideal for those who preferred a classic application method, providing a generous amount of fragrance for everyday use. For those seeking a larger quantity, the 6 oz Cologne was available at $7.50, offering an excellent value for the price.

The 2 oz Spray Mist Cologne, priced at $3.50, introduced a modern twist with its misting feature, perfect for a refreshing and convenient application. For a more elegant and portable option, the 1 dram Perfume Purse Spray was available at $4.00, allowing users to carry a touch of Incanto wherever they went.

The perfume collection included several sizes to accommodate different preferences and budgets. The ¼ oz Perfume was priced at $9.00, offering a compact, luxurious option for those who desired a concentrated version of the fragrance. The ½ oz Perfume, available for $17.50, provided a mid-sized bottle that balanced luxury with practicality. For those who sought an even more substantial experience, the 1 ½ oz Perfume was offered at $30.00, providing a generous quantity of this exquisite scent.

Each product in the Incanto line was crafted to deliver the enchanting and sophisticated qualities of the fragrance in a format that suited the lifestyle and preferences of its discerning clientele.

Bottles:

The parfum of Incanto was elegantly presented in a distinctive clear glass bottle shaped like a crown, a design that embodied both luxury and sophistication. This regal bottle was entirely enameled in black, creating a striking contrast against its clear crystal ground glass stopper. The crown motif not only reflected the fragrance’s association with high status but also added a touch of opulence to its presentation.

The dramatic bottle was available in three sizes, each meticulously crafted to reflect its grandeur. The smallest size, ¼ oz, stood at a delicate 1 7/8 inches tall, making it a refined choice for those seeking a compact yet luxurious option. The ½ oz bottle, measuring 2 ½ inches tall, offered a slightly larger quantity while maintaining its elegant silhouette. The largest size, 1 ½ oz, stood at an impressive 3 3/8 inches tall, providing a generous amount of parfum housed in its exquisitely designed container.

Each size of the Incanto bottle was designed to evoke a sense of regal elegance, capturing the essence of the fragrance’s sophisticated allure while providing a visually captivating addition to any vanity.

 

According to the 1960 edition of the Modern Packaging Encyclopedia, Simonetta's Incanto perfume was presented in an opulent and distinctive packaging design. The fragrance was housed in round set-up boxes that mimicked the grandeur of Roman columns, embodying a sense of classical luxury and sophistication.

The packaging featured a heavily embossed paper that simulated the appearance and texture of a fluted Roman column. This intricate design detail not only provided a visually striking aesthetic but also created a tactile experience reminiscent of classical architecture. The use of this luxurious, column-inspired design was crafted by F.N. Burt Co., adding a touch of elegance to the presentation of Incanto.

These round column boxes elevated the unboxing experience, reflecting the perfume's refined character and aligning with the era's penchant for ornate and elaborate packaging. The design seamlessly complemented the fragrance’s sophisticated profile, making Incanto not just a scent but an experience of timeless elegance.

photo by Mastro Auctions

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Incanto was discontinued at an undetermined date, though it was still available on the market as late as 1971. Despite its eventual withdrawal from production, the fragrance maintained a presence well into the early 1970s, reflecting its enduring appeal and the lasting impression it made on its audience.

The discontinuation of Incanto marked the end of an era for this distinctive perfume, yet its continued availability several years after its initial launch suggests that it retained a loyal following. The fragrance's blend of sophistication and elegance, combined with its memorable packaging and association with the esteemed Simonetta, ensured that Incanto remained a cherished choice for those who sought a touch of timeless luxury in their scent.