Princesse du Nord by Prince Matchabelli c1935

Princesse du Nord by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1935, carries a name steeped in historical and regal connotations. Also known as "Katherine the Great,"  When coupled with Princesse du Nord, the perfume draws inspiration from the illustrious Russian empress, Catherine the Great, whose influence and grandeur mirror the fragrance’s own aura of sophistication and elegance.

The name "Princesse du Nord" translates from French to "Princess of the North." This evocative title suggests an image of regal splendor and icy elegance, reflecting the northern European heritage of Catherine the Great. By choosing this name, Prince Matchabelli likely aimed to evoke a sense of royal sophistication and mystery, appealing to women who admired both the grandeur of historical figures and the allure of the exotic.

In the 1930s, the world of cinema and popular culture was rich with stories of historical figures and grandiose settings. Films of the time, such as The Scarlet Empress (1934), which depicted the life of Catherine the Great, contributed to the fascination with regal and historical themes. This cultural backdrop made the name "Princesse du Nord" particularly resonant and appealing.

The name "Princesse du Nord" conjures images of icy, regal splendor and the majestic beauty of northern landscapes. It evokes emotions of grandeur and nobility, suggesting a fragrance that is both sophisticated and enigmatic. The idea of a princess from the north evokes visions of snow-covered palaces, opulent court settings, and an aura of serene, commanding elegance.

For women of the 1930s, a perfume named "Princesse du Nord" would have symbolized a blend of historical prestige and modern sophistication. It would have appealed to those seeking to embrace a touch of royalty and exoticism in their personal scent. The fragrance, classified as a floral oriental, would have resonated with the era’s trend towards rich, complex scents, which often combined opulent floral notes with deep, sensual base elements.

During the 1930s, the perfume industry saw a trend towards rich, opulent fragrances that reflected the luxurious lifestyles of the time. Floral orientals were popular, combining the softness of floral notes with the depth and complexity of oriental elements. Princesse du Nord aligned with this trend but distinguished itself with its specific historical and geographical allusions. While many fragrances of the period embraced floral and oriental notes, Princesse du Nord’s unique name and its reference to a historical figure set it apart, giving it a distinctive place in the market.

In summary, Princesse du Nord by Prince Matchabelli captured the imagination of the 1930s with its regal name and sophisticated scent profile. It reflected both the era’s fascination with history and its preference for luxurious, complex fragrances, positioning it as a standout in a market rich with opulent scents.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like?  It was classified as a floral oriental perfume for women. Suitable for furs. It was described as being "nobly scented — yet so utterly feminine. Bouquet fragrance." Also described as a "sweet, spicy blend" and "cool and barbaric like her foreign soul."

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, coriander, lily of the valley, hyacinth, lemon, neroli, mint
• Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, carnation, orange blossom, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, cardamom, rose, mimosa, ylang ylang, lilac 
• Base notes: Abyssinian ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, East Indian vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, juniper, pine

Scent Profile:

Princesse du Nord (Katherine the Great) opens with an intricate blend of top notes that immediately engages the senses with a burst of freshness and subtle spice. Calabrian bergamot greets you first, its zesty, citrusy aroma offering a bright, invigorating start that feels like a splash of sunlight on your skin. Coriander adds a touch of warmth with its slightly spicy, aromatic quality, balancing the freshness with a hint of exotic complexity. Lily of the valley emerges next, its delicate, green floral scent evoking the image of a serene, blooming garden in early spring. Hyacinth follows, rich and sweet with its heady, full-bodied floral aroma that fills the air with lush vibrancy. Lemon provides a tangy burst of brightness, its crisp, clean scent cutting through the sweetness with refreshing clarity. Neroli contributes a light, slightly bitter citrus note, adding a sophisticated depth and a subtle hint of warmth. Finally, mint introduces a cooling, invigorating sensation, its crisp, green freshness bringing a breath of cool air to the bouquet.

As the fragrance transitions to its middle notes, it reveals a complex, floral heart interwoven with warm, spicy undertones. Orange blossom unfolds with a creamy, rich floral scent that envelops you in its luxurious sweetness, while jasmine adds an opulent, warm floral depth that resonates with sensual allure. Carnation infuses the heart with its spicy, clove-like aroma, providing a touch of classic elegance. The scent of orange blossom repeats, reinforcing the perfume's creamy, floral character. Cinnamon introduces a warm, spicy note, its sweet, woody essence mingling with the other spices for a rich, aromatic complexity. Nutmeg complements the cinnamon with its warm, slightly sweet, and nutty aroma, adding depth and richness. Clove adds a pungent, aromatic quality, heightening the spicy profile of the fragrance. Cardamom offers a hint of exotic spice with its warm, slightly sweet, and herbal aroma. Rose lends a timeless, romantic floral note, its velvety sweetness blending seamlessly with the other elements. Mimosa adds a powdery, soft sweetness, enhancing the fragrance's overall softness. Ylang ylang contributes an exotic, sweet floral nuance with a touch of sensuality, while lilac imparts a soft, slightly fruity floral scent that evokes a sense of delicate springtime blooms.

In the base notes, Abyssinian ambergris brings a rich, warm marine note, evoking a sense of luxurious depth and mystery. Tibetan musk adds an earthy, animalic quality, imparting a profound sensuality that anchors the fragrance. Abyssinian civet enhances the base with a musky, slightly animalistic note, deepening the fragrance’s complexity. Mysore sandalwood wraps the scent in its creamy, smooth, and woody aroma, providing a grounding and sophisticated base. Vanilla sweetens the composition with its rich, warm, and comforting essence, adding a touch of indulgence. Benzoin contributes a resinous, balsamic note, its sweet warmth enriching the base with a hint of ancient opulence. East Indian vetiver adds a green, earthy depth, balancing the sweetness with a sophisticated, natural richness. Patchouli introduces a rich, earthy, and slightly spicy tone, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity with its distinctive character. Oakmoss provides a mossy, woody undertone, evoking the scent of a dense, ancient forest. Finally, juniper and pine add a crisp, fresh, and slightly resinous touch, recalling the invigorating scent of a wooded landscape.

Katherine the Great is a masterful floral oriental fragrance that combines freshness, warmth, and depth, offering an olfactory experience as elegant and timeless as the furs it was designed to complement.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Review, 1937:

"Matchabelli has an unusual and striking bottle in the form of a crown, in which are displayed "Ave Maria," "Abano," and "Princesse du Nord".

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Princesse du Nord by Prince Matchabelli, a distinguished floral oriental perfume, was discontinued at an unspecified date but remained available under the name "Katherine the Great" as late as 1955. This change in branding underscores the fragrance's enduring appeal and the brand’s strategic efforts to maintain its market presence.

The perfume, known for its complex bouquet of florals and orientals, continued to enchant with its noble and feminine scent profile even after its original release. By rebranding as "Katherine the Great," the perfume's association with the renowned Russian empress provided a touch of historical grandeur and mystique, enhancing its allure.

The discontinuation of Princesse du Nord marks the end of an era for this enchanting fragrance, but its legacy lived on, captured in its later incarnation. The fact that it remained on the market as "Katherine the Great" into the mid-1950s highlights its lasting impact and the enduring fascination with its unique, regal scent.