Royal Gardenia by Prince Matchabelli c1929

Royal Gardenia by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1929, epitomized the opulence and grandeur associated with its name. The choice of "Royal Gardenia" reflects both a nod to aristocratic elegance and the allure of the gardenia flower, known for its rich and luxurious scent. The term "Royal" imbues the fragrance with a sense of regal sophistication, suggesting an experience of luxury and exclusivity. Gardenia, often associated with beauty and refinement, adds a touch of floral richness that was particularly appealing in the early 20th century.

The name "Royal Gardenia" evokes images of lavish gardens in full bloom, where the gardenia's creamy, velvety petals exude an intoxicating fragrance. This combination of terms conjures a vision of opulence and prestige, perfectly suited for a perfume designed to make a bold statement. Women of the 1920s, who were drawn to scents that exuded grandeur and elegance, would have been particularly attracted to a fragrance with such a distinguished name. The allure of gardenia, with its intense sweetness and sophistication, would have resonated with those seeking to embody a sense of refinement and luxury.

In the context of the 1920s fragrance market, Royal Gardenia stood out for its strong emphasis on a single floral note. While the period saw a range of floral and oriental perfumes, the focus on gardenia as a soliflore—particularly one described as very sweet and heavy—was somewhat distinctive. Many perfumes of the era embraced complex, multi-layered compositions with a variety of floral and spicy notes. Royal Gardenia’s dedication to a single, opulent flower reflected a trend towards bold, singular statements in fragrance, contrasting with the more intricate blends popular at the time. This dedication to gardenia not only emphasized its luxurious character but also aligned with the broader appeal of lush, rich scents that were fashionable in the early 20th century.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a very sweet, heavy gardenia soliflore fragrance for women.

• Top notes:  aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, vegetal green note, heliotrope, mimosa, neroli
• Middle notes: French geranium, rose, gardenia, tuberose, coconut, jasmine concrete, ylang ylang, orange blossom
• Base notes: Abyssinian ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, birch tar, Tibetan musk, ambrette seed, labdanum, benzoin, storax, civet

Scent Profile:

There are no official notes listed anywhere, so I am testing a very small amount of the parfum from my vintage c1930s bottle of Royal Gardenia in the sceptre flacon. The bottle was still sealed but lost most of its perfume due to evaporation, however there is some very syrupy and concentrated perfume oils down at the base of the bottle.

Upon applying a generous drop of Royal Gardenia to the back of my hand, the initial impression is a captivating blend of rich and sweet floral notes. As the scent begins to unfold, the top notes offer a heady combination of aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, and vegetal green notes. The aldehydes provide a bright, effervescent quality, while the bergamot introduces a zesty, citrusy sharpness that quickly mingles with the green note, evoking the sensation of freshly cut foliage. The addition of heliotrope and mimosa contributes a creamy, almost powdery sweetness, blending seamlessly with the bright, tangy edge of neroli.

As the fragrance develops, the middle notes reveal themselves with a lush bouquet of gardenia, tuberose, and jasmine concrete. The gardenia, the centerpiece of this perfume, exudes a rich, velvety sweetness that is both intoxicating and opulent. This is complemented by the tuberose, adding a heady, slightly creamy floral quality, while the jasmine concrete introduces a deep, indolic facet with its oily, waxy nuances. The coconut note brings a subtle, tropical hint, enhancing the overall richness of the composition. A touch of French geranium, rose, ylang ylang, and orange blossom further layers the fragrance with their respective floral, fruity, and slightly green characteristics.

The base notes, as the perfume settles, reveal a complex and deep foundation. Abyssinian ambergris and Mysore sandalwood provide a warm, resinous richness, while birch tar adds a distinctive, smoky, and tarry undertone. Tibetan musk, ambrette seed, labdanum, benzoin, and storax all contribute to a base that is both luxurious and nuanced, with musk offering a soft, sensual touch and labdanum and benzoin adding resinous sweetness. The civet, though subtle, adds a hint of animalic depth, rounding out the fragrance with an earthy, yet refined finish.

Overall, Royal Gardenia is a powerful, narcotic perfume characterized by its sweet, heavy floral bouquet. While the jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia combination can be overwhelming up close, it transforms into a beautifully complex and alluring scent when experienced from a distance. The fragrance’s rich, sweet florals, combined with its deep, resinous base, create a perfume that is both captivating and luxurious. If released today, a slight reduction in the indolic notes might make it even more enchanting, but it undoubtedly stands out as a remarkably evocative and intoxicating scent.

Bottles:

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Royal Gardenia by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1929, has been discontinued since 1955, rendering it a rare and sought-after find today. This once-celebrated fragrance, known for its opulent and rich gardenia soliflore composition, is no longer available on the market, making it a prized collector's item for fragrance enthusiasts.

The perfume's discontinuation was a gradual process, with its presence fading as the years went by. By the mid-20th century, Royal Gardenia had largely disappeared from shelves, leaving behind only a few remnants in private collections and vintage fragrance archives. Its rarity is a testament to its historical significance and the unique olfactory profile that captivated its wearers during its time.

For those fortunate enough to encounter a bottle of Royal Gardenia, it represents a piece of fragrance history—a glimpse into the luxurious and sophisticated world of 1920s perfumery. The scent’s rich floral composition, marked by the intense sweetness of gardenia, tuberose, and jasmine, alongside its deep, resinous base, remains a captivating and evocative experience. Its scarcity only adds to its allure, making it a treasured gem for connoisseurs and collectors alike.