Wicker by Prince Matchabelli c1969

Launched in 1969, Wicker by Prince Matchabelli was a fragrance born from the era's fascination with wicker prints in fashion and its use in handbags. The trend gained significant momentum when Rose Kennedy was featured on the cover of a national magazine, elegantly seated in a high-backed wicker chair. This high-profile exposure quickly transformed wicker into a status symbol.

At Prince Matchabelli, the development of a new Spring-Summer perfume was underway, designed with a mossy, woodsy scent to capture the essence of the season. During a brainstorming session to name the fragrance, the suggestion of "Wicker" emerged. The name resonated because wicker furniture evoked vivid imagery of the great outdoors—particularly the charm of white wicker pieces. It called to mind serene spring afternoons on a porch swing, tranquil nights rowing on moonlit lakes, and the inviting atmosphere of garden parties and gazebos. Wicker symbolized a world of freshness and light, embodying sunny skies, lush grass, and idyllic summer evenings. The fragrance aimed to evoke a romantic and fairy-tale-like ambience, helping wearers dream of summer escapades and fairy-tale moments.

Prince Matchabelli, in tune with contemporary trends, embraced the wicker theme fully. The name was further endorsed by Margaret Murchison, a Matchabelli representative, who discovered Walter's Wicker Wonderland—a unique shop specializing in wicker furniture replicas from various eras. The shop’s thriving business highlighted the pervasive appeal of wicker across fashion, accessories, home décor, and furniture. Matchabelli executives recognized that the name "Wicker" not only aligned with the prevailing trends but also projected a modern, stylish image that resonated with the spirit of the times.

Fragrance Composition:

It is classified as a light floral semi-oriental fragrance for women. It was a fresh fragrance to be worn during the warmer months spanning spring and summer. Its subtle blend of mossy greens, woods and understated florals were reminiscent of fresh, green grass. A cool, crisp combination of light floral and woodsy. It is light, not too sweet or heavy for spring and summer.  

• Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, aldehydes, violet leaf, lime, basil, mint
• Middle notes: violets, white jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, freesia, hyacinth
• Base notes: amber, patchouli, vetiver, tonka bean, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla

Scent Profile:

Wicker by Prince Matchabelli opens with a burst of invigorating freshness, starting with the green, resinous aroma of galbanum. This note brings to mind a lush, dewy meadow, where the scent of verdant foliage fills the air. Interlaced with this is the bright, zesty aroma of bergamot and lime, which adds a citrusy sparkle and a hint of tangy sweetness, reminiscent of a sunlit afternoon. The aldehydes introduce a crisp, soapy quality that imparts a clean, effervescent feel. Complementing these are the green, slightly spicy nuances of violet leaf and the cool, herbal freshness of basil and mint. Together, these top notes create a vivid impression of freshly cut grass and the vibrant, awakening scents of a spring garden.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a delicate bouquet of florals. The soft, powdery scent of violets mingles with the heady, exotic aroma of white jasmine, lending a subtle yet intoxicating floral richness. Rose contributes a classic, romantic note, while lily of the valley and freesia introduce a light, airy sweetness that evokes the purity of spring blossoms. Hyacinth adds a touch of green, floral complexity, rounding out the middle notes with its crisp and slightly sweet aroma. This combination creates a harmonious floral symphony that is both fresh and refined.

In the base, Wicker settles into a warm, earthy embrace. The rich, golden scent of amber weaves through the fragrance, adding a soft, resinous warmth. Patchouli and vetiver provide a grounding, woody depth, their earthy qualities reminiscent of a sun-drenched forest floor. Tonka bean introduces a subtle sweetness with its creamy, vanilla-like undertones, while oakmoss adds a classic mossy, forest aroma that deepens the scent. Sandalwood and cedar contribute a smooth, woody finish, their dry, slightly creamy notes evoking the sturdy elegance of aged wood. The base concludes with a gentle hint of vanilla, enhancing the fragrance’s overall warmth and subtle sweetness.

Overall, Wicker captures the essence of a light, semi-oriental floral fragrance, blending cool, crisp greens and delicate florals with a sophisticated woodsy base. It is a scent designed to be both refreshing and elegant, perfectly suited for the warmer months of spring and summer.

Product Line:

Launched on April 1, 1969, Wicker by Prince Matchabelli made a striking debut with its distinctive packaging, featuring a wicker-encased bottle adorned in a refreshing apple green and wicker white color scheme. The design perfectly mirrored the fragrance’s theme, evoking the charm and sophistication of wicker furniture, while capturing the essence of springtime elegance.

The fragrance was offered in a variety of formats to suit different preferences and occasions. The cologne splash provided a classic, straightforward application, ideal for those who appreciated a traditional touch. For a more modern approach, the cooling spray mist cologne offered a refreshing and invigorating spritz, perfect for a quick burst of fragrance on warm days.

In addition, the perfumed spray puff featured a luxurious fluffy foam that not only scented but also smoothed the skin, enhancing the fragrance experience with a touch of elegance. The line also included marbleized soap, which combined practical cleansing with a subtle infusion of the Wicker scent, turning everyday rituals into a sensory delight.

For those seeking an extra layer of refinement, dusting powder added a delicate veil of fragrance to the skin, while the perfumed crème sachet provided a rich, soothing option. The spray bath powder offered a refreshing bath experience, infusing the water with the light, floral notes of Wicker for a truly immersive fragrance experience. Each product was designed to complement the others, creating a cohesive and sophisticated olfactory journey that captured the essence of the Wicker fragrance.

Harper's Bazaar, 1969

"Suddenly you have it, in delightful new Wicker from Matchabelli. ... Wicker is done up in green-and-white wicker- bordered bottles that shelter all the ways you could think of to make spring and ... Prince Matchabelli's new Wicker fragrance."

Fate of the Fragrance:

 

Wicker by Prince Matchabelli, a fragrance launched in 1969, was discontinued at an unspecified date. While it was still available for purchase in 1974, it had ceased production well before 1994. This elegant fragrance, cherished for its light, floral semi-oriental blend and distinctive wicker-themed packaging, gradually faded from the market. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Wicker remains a nostalgic symbol of its era, reflecting a bygone sophistication that continues to be remembered fondly by those who experienced its unique charm.

Luna Mystique by Prince Matchabelli c1990

"Luna Mystique" by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1990, is a name that was carefully chosen to evoke a sense of enchantment and mystery, drawing inspiration from the moon as a potent symbol of femininity. The word "Luna" is derived from Latin, meaning "moon," while "Mystique" comes from French, signifying something mysterious or enigmatic. Together, "Luna Mystique" conjures images of the moonlit night, with its soft, glowing light casting a serene yet mysterious ambiance. It evokes emotions of wonder, introspection, and a deep connection to the feminine mystique associated with the moon.

In the context of perfume, "Luna Mystique" would be interpreted as a fragrance that embodies the essence of the night, with an aura of romance and intrigue. It suggests a scent that is both delicate and powerful, capturing the dual nature of the moon's influence—its gentle light and its ability to stir deep emotions. Women of the time period would likely have related to "Luna Mystique" as a perfume that resonated with their inner strength and femininity, offering them a way to express their mysterious, romantic side. The name itself would have appealed to those who sought to connect with the timeless and universal symbolism of the moon, making it a perfume that felt both personal and evocative.

The early 1990s was a time when the perfume industry was exploring more complex and sophisticated scent profiles, moving away from the heavy, opulent fragrances of the 1980s. The market saw a rise in perfumes that blended floral notes with oriental elements, creating fragrances that were both romantic and exotic. "Luna Mystique," with its classification as a romantic floral oriental, fit well within this trend, yet its lunar inspiration gave it a unique identity. While it aligned with the broader movement towards more nuanced and layered scents, it stood out by offering a fragrance that was deeply connected to a powerful and enduring symbol of femininity. This made "Luna Mystique" a distinctive choice for women who wanted to embrace their mysterious allure, while still being in step with the prevailing trends of the time.

Infanta Perfume $750 Size!

This is an original 1937 press photo (credit: historic images). Mrs. William O'Donnell Iselin, New York socialite, receives from Miss Gertrude Lawrence, celebrated actress, a $750 bottle of Prince Matchabelii's Infanta perfume, the most costly bottle in the world and the only one, at a cocktail party at New York's Pierre Hotel.

As you can see in the photo, the bottle is massive! I have added color to the photo.

Royal Bouquet by Prince Matchabelli c1935

In 1935, Prince Matchabelli launched Royal Bouquet, a fragrance specially created to commemorate the British Royal Silver Jubilee—a significant event celebrating the 25th anniversary of King George V's reign. The Silver Jubilee was a moment of national pride and festivity in Britain, marked by grand parades, public ceremonies, and widespread celebration. By creating a fragrance to honor this occasion, Prince Matchabelli paid tribute to the enduring legacy and prestige of the British monarchy, aligning the perfume with a sense of history and regal elegance.

The choice of the name Royal Bouquet was both deliberate and evocative. The word "Royal" immediately conjures images of grandeur, opulence, and timeless tradition, resonating with the pomp and pageantry associated with the British monarchy. "Bouquet" suggests a gathering of the finest, most fragrant flowers, symbolizing purity, beauty, and refinement. Together, Royal Bouquet evokes the image of a lush, aromatic collection of blossoms, carefully selected and arranged to honor royalty. This name not only reflects the elegance of the fragrance but also its connection to a prestigious and celebratory moment in history.

Interpreted in scent, Royal Bouquet would likely be imagined as a rich, floral composition—a harmonious blend of the most exquisite flowers, each chosen for its beauty and fragrance. It would evoke a garden in full bloom, where the air is filled with the sweet, intoxicating scent of roses, lilies, and jasmine, mingling with the soft, green notes of freshly cut stems and leaves. The fragrance would be regal yet approachable, embodying both the sophistication of the monarchy and the natural beauty of a bouquet.

Damas by Prince Matchabelli c1930

Damas by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1930, draws its name from both the legendary city of Damascus and the revered damask rose. This evocative choice imbues the fragrance with a rich tapestry of historical and botanical significance. Damascus, known for its ancient grandeur and its legendary history as a center of culture and trade, conjures images of opulence and mystique. The damask rose, celebrated for its exquisite scent and delicate beauty, adds a layer of floral sophistication and sensuality to the perfume’s narrative.

The name Damas likely evokes a sense of exotic allure and historical romance, referencing the storied past of the city as well as the rose’s distinguished place in perfumery. During this era, the fascination with the Middle East and its luxurious traditions was prominent, driven by archaeological discoveries and a general Western fascination with the exotic. The 1930s saw a wave of interest in Eastern cultures, and Damas would have resonated with the zeitgeist, embodying a sense of exoticism and elegance that was both aspirational and intriguing.

Chimere by Prince Matchabelli c1979

Chimère by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1979, emerged during a period rich with evolving trends in the perfume industry. The late 1970s were marked by a resurgence of interest in classic and sophisticated fragrances, with a growing appreciation for complex, multi-layered compositions. The choice of the name "Chimère" reflects the era’s fascination with mythology and the allure of the exotic, evoking a sense of mystery and fantasy.

The term "Chimère" is derived from French, and translates to "chimera" in English. In mythology, a chimera is a creature composed of parts from different animals, symbolizing the blending of disparate elements into a single, fantastical entity. This name evokes images of mythical grandeur and enigmatic beauty, suggesting a fragrance that combines various elements to create something unique and captivating. The word “Chimère” conjures feelings of mystique and allure, suggesting a scent that is both intriguing and sophisticated, with a sense of fantasy and otherworldliness.

For women of the late 1970s, the name "Chimère" would have resonated with the era's embrace of both classic elegance and adventurous innovation. The fragrance’s profile—beginning with a bright aldehydic top note, progressing into a rich, narcotic floral heart, and resting on a warm, woody, and mossy base—mirrored the decade’s preference for complex, well-rounded scents. This fragrance was in line with the period’s trend towards rich, multifaceted compositions, yet its specific blend of floral and woody elements with a hint of mysterious spices set it apart.

The choice of "Chimère" as a name aligns with the broader trend of the time, where perfumes were increasingly marketed not just as scents, but as experiences that evoke specific moods and imagery. The name and the fragrance’s description as a "semi-oriental, a brilliant floral blend of roses, jasmine, gardenia, and lily of the valley touched with a subtle splurge of mysterious spices and darker notes" fit well within the era’s interest in luxurious and intriguing fragrances that offered a sensory escape from everyday life. Thus, Chimère captured the essence of the time, embodying both the classic and the contemporary, and appealing to those who sought both elegance and a touch of the exotic in their scent.

Wind Song by Prince Matchabelli c1953

Launched in 1953, Wind Song by Prince Matchabelli was designed to evoke the ethereal and delicate nature of its name. The choice of "Wind Song" conjures images of a gentle breeze carrying the harmonious notes of a melodious song, blending the natural elegance of the wind with the beauty of a fragrant bouquet. The name itself suggests a sense of serenity and grace, capturing the essence of nature's soft and soothing qualities.

In the context of fragrance, "Wind Song" translates to a brilliant floral bouquet, characterized by its fresh and spicy top notes. The perfume opens with a crisp, invigorating blend of spices that are both modern and refined, creating an immediate sense of freshness. As it develops, the fragrance reveals a heart of spicy florals, including lilac, jasmine, rose, and iris, which together create a rich and complex floral symphony. This is complemented by a powdery, feminine base subtly infused with woody undertones, adding depth and warmth to the overall composition.

For women of the early 1950s, Wind Song would have represented a sophisticated and contemporary choice in an era where floral perfumes were particularly popular. Its blend of fresh spices and rich florals, combined with a modern dry finish, set it apart from the more heavily floral or sweet fragrances of the time. Wind Song aligned with the emerging trend of elegant, refined perfumes that exuded both freshness and sophistication, appealing to women seeking a distinctive and memorable scent.

Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli c1983

Launched in 1983, Cachet Noir by Prince Matchabelli was introduced as an evening counterpart to their earlier fragrance, Cachet, which had gained popularity a few years prior. The name Cachet Noir was thoughtfully chosen to evoke a sense of sophistication and allure. "Cachet" is a French word meaning prestige or distinction, and "Noir" translates to "black" in French. Together, "Cachet Noir" suggests an elevated, enigmatic quality, embodying a sense of mystery and exclusivity.

The term "Cachet Noir" conjures images of luxurious sophistication and evening elegance. The word "Noir" implies a sense of depth and richness, hinting at a fragrance that is both bold and subtly intriguing. This name positions the perfume as a choice for evening wear, where a more intense and seductive scent is desired. The idea of "Noir" evokes emotions of allure and opulence, suggesting a fragrance that is perfect for sophisticated occasions where a deeper, more complex scent profile is appreciated.

In terms of interpretation, Cachet Noir would have been perceived as a statement fragrance. Its classification as a spicy oriental fragrance underscores its richness and warmth, with a spicy top that introduces the scent with a burst of aromatic intensity. The spicy floral woody heart continues this theme, offering a complex blend of spices and florals that create an enveloping and captivating presence. The base, with its warm, balsamic notes, provides a lasting impression that is both comforting and sensual.

Georgian Carnation c1934

Georgian Carnation by Prince Matchabelli, introduced in 1934, was a fragrance deeply rooted in both personal and cultural significance. Named in honor of Prince Matchabelli's Georgian heritage, the title evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions tied to his homeland. The term "Georgian" brings to mind the storied landscapes and historical elegance of Georgia, while "Carnation" conjures the image of the lush, fragrant flower, known for its vibrant beauty and spicy-sweet aroma.

The name "Georgian Carnation" bridges the personal with the botanical, suggesting a perfume that embodies both the exotic allure of Georgia and the classic floral sophistication of the carnation. For women of the 1930s, the choice of this name would have resonated on multiple levels. It represented not only a connection to the Prince's own roots but also an invitation to experience a fragrance that was both exotic and familiar. The 1930s were a period marked by a fascination with opulence and the exploration of exotic themes, often reflected in the perfume industry. While the market was rich with floral and spicy fragrances, "Georgian Carnation" distinguished itself by combining a sweet and spicy profile with a narrative of cultural heritage.

The perfume's classification as a sweet and spicy floral aligns with the era's trends, which favored rich, evocative scents that offered a sense of sophistication and depth. "Georgian Carnation" would have been appreciated for its ability to blend the heady sweetness of the carnation with spicy undertones, creating a fragrance that was both captivating and elegant, fitting perfectly within the luxurious and often elaborate tastes of the 1930s perfume market.

Prince Matchabelli Makes a Film c1930

Here are some images taken from a "commercial" to be played during movie intermissions or publicity photos for Prince Matchabelli in 1930. These are various scenes of Matchabelli recommending perfumes to two women (multiple takes).

I am going to assume that these are studio shots with the shelving and table set up to simulate his shop, complete with his perfume bottles and individual essence bottles used in making the personalized perfumes in the background.

here is a take of a woman sampling the perfumes:

Here Matchabelli speaks on men wearing perfume.

Tres L.A. by Prince Matchabelli c1988

"Tres L.A.," launched in 1988 by Impulse, a division of Prince Matchabelli, was a fragrance designed to capture the vibrant essence of Los Angeles with a touch of glamour. The name "Tres L.A." blends French and American elements, with "Tres" being French for "very" or "too," and "L.A." referring to Los Angeles. This choice of name effectively evokes a sense of sophistication and allure while simultaneously positioning the fragrance within the context of the trendy and youthful Californian lifestyle.

In the late 1980s, the fragrance market was marked by a strong emphasis on bold, distinctive scents and a growing preference for perfumes that mirrored the dynamic culture of the time. "Tres L.A." was designed to resonate with young women aged 18 to 25, who were seeking an alternative to the more mature and opulent fragrances like Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly Hills. The name "Tres L.A." conjures images of sun-soaked beaches, the glitz of Hollywood, and a lifestyle marked by high energy and youthful exuberance. It suggests a perfume that embodies a fun, carefree attitude—perfect for the fashion-forward and adventurous spirit of the era.

Added Attraction by Prince Matchabelli c1956

Added Attraction by Prince Matchabelli, introduced in 1956, evokes a sense of allure and sophistication, perfectly aligning with the era's burgeoning fascination with personal charm and elegance. The name “Added Attraction” suggests an enhancement of one's natural appeal, implying that the fragrance itself serves as an extra layer of magnetic allure.

The term "Added Attraction" conjures images of increased allure and heightened appeal, suggesting that the perfume provides an additional, irresistible quality. In the context of fragrance, it implies a scent that not only complements but enhances the wearer's presence, adding a touch of distinction and intrigue. This name plays into the mid-20th century’s emphasis on sophistication and personal magnetism, reflecting a time when women sought to express their individuality and charm through their choice of fragrance.

During the 1950s, perfumes were increasingly celebrated for their ability to create a memorable impression, and Added Attraction fits well within this trend. This period saw a strong emphasis on fragrances that combined floral notes with deeper, more complex bases, reflecting both the era's love for rich, opulent scents and the growing interest in perfumes that offered a sense of both warmth and sensuality.

Added Attraction is classified as a floral chypre fragrance, distinguished by its vibrant and warm character. The perfume’s blend of floral elements with a musky, mossy, and woodsy base would have appealed to women seeking a scent that was both dynamic and grounding. The fragrance reflects the era’s preference for bold, yet sophisticated aromas that promised to enhance the wearer’s personal allure. As such, Added Attraction not only aligned with contemporary trends but also stood out as a testament to Prince Matchabelli's ability to capture the zeitgeist of the 1950s in a bottle.

Wind Song Breezy by Prince Matchabelli c1976

Launched in 1976, Wind Song Breezy by Prince Matchabelli was designed to offer a refreshing twist on its predecessor, Wind Song. The name "Wind Song Breezy" evokes a sense of lightness and airiness, suggesting a fragrance that is as invigorating and effortless as a gentle breeze. The term "breezy" enhances the imagery of freshness and movement, conjuring thoughts of a soft, cool wind rustling through blooming gardens. This imagery aligns with the perfume's character, offering a fresh and green floral scent that is both invigorating and natural.

The choice of "Breezy" in the name reflects the evolving fragrance trends of the mid-1970s, a time when lighter, more ethereal scents began to gain popularity. This period saw a shift away from the heavy, opulent perfumes of the earlier decades towards fragrances that embodied a sense of freedom and modernity. Wind Song Breezy embraced this trend with its fresh green notes and light floral composition, offering a modern and youthful alternative to the more traditional scents of the era.

Women of the 1970s, who were increasingly drawn to scents that mirrored the changing social and cultural landscapes, would have appreciated Wind Song Breezy for its contemporary and natural feel. The fragrance's blend of romantic and fresh floral notes captured the spirit of the time, making it a fitting companion for a decade marked by a desire for simplicity and authenticity in personal expression.

Cachet by Prince Matchabelli c1970

Launched in 1970, Cachet by Prince Matchabelli was a bold statement in the perfume industry, embodying sophistication and individuality. The choice of the name "Cachet" was a strategic one, reflecting the French word that denotes prestige, distinction, and a unique mark of approval. In this context, "Cachet" suggests an aura of exclusivity and refinement, qualities that Prince Matchabelli aimed to convey through this fragrance. The name evokes images of high status and elegance, positioning the perfume as a symbol of personal distinction.

The term "Cachet," rooted in French, implies a sense of authenticity and uniqueness. It brings to mind an elevated status and a mark of distinction, enhancing the fragrance’s allure. In the realm of perfume, "Cachet" would be interpreted as a scent that is not only luxurious but also tailored to enhance the wearer’s personal charm. The name suggests that the fragrance possesses an innate quality that complements and amplifies the individual characteristics of those who wear it.

In the context of the early 1970s, Cachet was introduced during a period marked by diverse and evolving trends in fragrance. The era was characterized by a fascination with bold, innovative scents that combined classic elements with new, daring combinations. Cachet’s classification as an animalic floral chypre fragrance was quite fitting for the time, reflecting a blend of traditional chypre notes with modern, sensual undertones. Its spicy aldehydic top notes, sultry woody floral heart, and warm, leathery mossy base aligned well with the prevailing tastes of the decade, which embraced both complexity and sensuality in perfumes.

The introductory advertisements for Cachet emphasized its unique ability to interact with the wearer’s body chemistry, claiming that it would enhance and play up each individual's special qualities. This marketing approach was designed to resonate with women seeking a fragrance that offered both freshness and a distinctive personal touch. By highlighting the perfume’s capacity to adapt to personal chemistry, Prince Matchabelli tapped into a desire for individuality and self-expression, making Cachet a compelling choice for women looking to assert their own unique style in the early 1970s.

Prophecy by Prince Matchabelli c1962

Prophecy by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1962, marked a significant return for the brand as their first major new fragrance since 1958. The choice of the name "Prophecy" is both intriguing and evocative. A prophecy is a declaration or prediction about future events, often imbued with a sense of mystery and foresight. This name suggests a fragrance that holds promises and secrets, inviting the wearer into a realm of the unknown and the extraordinary.

The term "Prophecy" conjures images of ancient wisdom and enigmatic revelations, invoking a sense of anticipation and wonder. It suggests a scent that is not just a fragrance but a journey into something profound and transformative. The emotional resonance of the name is one of intrigue and allure, appealing to those who seek a perfume that carries with it an air of sophistication and depth.

In the context of perfume, "Prophecy" implies a fragrance that is complex and multifaceted, offering a narrative through its scent. It promises an experience that evolves and unfolds, much like a story or prediction coming to life. For women of the early 1960s, a perfume named "Prophecy" would likely have been seen as an exciting and forward-thinking choice, aligning with a growing trend towards more sophisticated and unique fragrances. The name would have resonated with the era's fascination with innovation and exploration, reflecting a desire for something both modern and timeless.

Launched during a period of significant change in the fragrance industry, Prophecy was part of a broader trend of complex, layered scents that emerged in the 1960s. This era saw a shift towards more intricate and daring compositions, moving away from the simpler, more straightforward fragrances of the past. Prophecy, with its classification as a complex aldehydic woody floral fragrance with amber notes, fit well within this trend. Its combination of aldehydes, woody elements, and rich amber would have set it apart from the more traditional floral and citrus-based perfumes of the time, offering a distinctive and forward-looking option for the discerning woman. The fragrance's intricate blend reflects the period's embrace of bold, innovative styles, making it a fitting addition to the evolving landscape of perfumery.